Cons — Nozzle is on the thicker side
– Treble can exhibit BA timbre
– Stock cable could be better
– Needs to be paired with a warm-ish source for best results

INTRODUCTION

Hisenior audio has been in the industry for years, mostly catering to the custom monitor market. While I have always wanted to try one of its IEMs, I never got around to it, until the release of Okavango that is.

The driver configuration of the Okavango is quite comprehensive for their price tag: 1 Bio-cellulose DD + 6 BA drivers with true 4-way crossover are nothing to scoff at. Add to that the tuning switches and things certainly look interesting to say the least.

This isn’t a numbers game though, so the driver count barely matters as long as the sound is competitive. At the asking price, there are several well-established competitors, which leaves little room for mistake on Hisenior’s part. No pressure, I guess.

Note: the ratings given will be subjective to the price tier. I purchased the Okavango and Whitewhale cable at a discount.

Sources used: Cayin RU7, Lotoo PAW Gold Touch, Questyle CMA Twelve Master
Price, while reviewed: $300. Can be bought from Hisenior’s official website.

PHYSICAL THINGS AND USABILITY

PACKAGING AND ACCESSORIES

The highlight of the packaging is definitely the Pelican-like hard-shell carry case. The case is waterproof, crush-proof, and has lined mesh pockets along with foam padding. I’d pay $50 for a case like this and here you get one for free. Not bad at all.

The stock cable is less of a standout. It’s a generic cloth-braided cable. I also purchased the WhiteWhale cable in 4.4mm termination. This is a great cable in terms of ergonomics and overall aesthetics. The 6N SP-OCC material is radiates a certain sheen that catches the eye.

There are also 10 pairs of tips inside the package. I ended up using Spinfit CP-100+ for this review, but the stock tips were pretty decent as well. Finally, you get a SIM-card tool for engaging the switches, and a cleaning brush.

BUILD QUALITY

Okavango use a pseudo-custom resin shell. The faceplate design and even the shell color can be customized on the Okavango Custom-design variant, at a price-premium. I liked the look of the stock shell and just invested the extra bucks into the cable.

The faceplate seems to be stabilized wood on the upper portion. On the side, there are the tuning switches and a large vent to alleviate pressure buildup and allow airflow into the chamber for the dynamic driver.

The nozzle is on the thicker side, though I did not find it to be uncomfortable. There is a metal mesh on top of the nozzle but underneath it should be individual sound bores. The switches are rather small and needs a small, pointy object to be engaged. I ended up using the tip of a ballpoint pen most of the times.

Overall, the typically “solid” build quality one should expect at the asking price.

COMFORT, ISOLATION, AND FIT

Comfort is fairly good on the Okavango, other than the nozzle which can feel substantial when worn, albeit it was not uncomfortable for me. Isolation is above average with silicone tips and good with foam tips.

SOURCE AND EARTIPS

I primarily used the Okavango with the Cayin RU7 that helped with the BA timbre in the highs. The Okavango are not power hungry at all and should be easily driven by most dongles in the market.

DRIVER SETUP

The Hisenior Okavango are 7-driver hybrids, with a four way crossover splitting the driver setup into low, mids, highs, and ultra-highs. The single DD is used for bass frequencies only, whereas the rest of the frequencies are handled by the 6BA drivers. Hisenior does not divulge further information about specific driver types used in construction.

Moreover, there are two tuning switches, resulting in four different combination of the switches (00, 01, 10, 11). These switches can noticeably alter the overall presentation.

TONALITY AND TECHNICALITIES

As the Okavango have four different tuning choices, It is hard to generalize the sound signature. However, all the tunings are somewhat V-shaped, and the degree of the “steepness” of the curve on either side depends on the tuning mode selected.

Many dynamic + BA hybrids tend to focus less on the performance of the BA driver which results in a slow bass that is highly incoherent against the rest of the (ultra-fast) BA driver array.

Hisenior mostly solves this issue by choosing a dynamic driver with fast transients, so bass notes do not linger or lag behind even in relatively complex tracks. Moreover, there is a physicality to the bass that further enhances the sense of engagement, as can be heard on John Mayer’s Clarity. Mid-bass texture is well-rendered, with heavy snare hits having adequate body.

Mids are tuned in a crowd-pleasing manner. None of the tuning modes offer much upper-midrange prominence, resulting in a slightly laid-back, smooth vocal rendition. Male vocals can sound recessed in bass-heavy tracks, Acoustic guitars and strings do not lose the sharpness of the leading edge, neither do heavy guitar riffs, thanks to the peak near 4kHz.

This peak alone would be problematic if the treble rolled-off from thereon, but the mid-treble peak around 7kHz balances out the forwardness in lower-treble. However, this leads to the tuning coming across as “analytical” in certain source pairings and switch configurations. The bass configuration (first switch up, second one down) aids in this regard and mellows out the signature considerably.

One notable issue is the dry BA timbre that hi-hats or cymbal hits can exhibit. Pairing to a slightly warmer source like Cayin RU7 takes care of the issue to a degree, but the “brittleness” of treble notes remain. I guess it’s one of those concessions you have to make at this price point.

Staging is the widest in the brightest configuration, while imaging is also the most precise when treble mode is engaged. The other three modes either narrow the stage, or add some haziness to the staging. Considering the competition, the staging and imaging on the Okavango range from above-average (bass config) to very good (bright config).

Macrodynamics are rendered exceptionally well, with sudden bass drops or orchestral rises having the “drama” you expect. Microdynamics or subtle shifts in volume are less obvious, which seems to be a case for most hybrid IEMs that I’ve come across.

Overall, really competent tuning and good technicalities result in IEMs that stand out amidst a sea of competition.

SELECT COMPARISONS

vs Kiwi Ears Orchestra Lite

The Kiwi Ears Orchestra Lite are priced slightly lower than the Okavango and have an all-BA setup, with 8 BA drivers taking care of everything. Build is similar between both, but the Orchestra Lite go for a transparent inner-shell which looks better IMO.

Comfort is similar on both, while isolation is better on Orchestra Lite.

When it comes to sound, the Okavango have far superior bass response, there really is no contest here. Bass slam, depth, mid-bass texture – all put the vented BAs on the Orchestra Lite to shame. Mids are slightly smoother on the Orchestra Lite, so is the treble. Okavango have more focus in mid and lower-treble while the upper-treble airiness can be better than the Orchestra Lite in the treble configuration.

Staging is wider on the Okavango, while imaging is similar between both. Dynamics are also superior on the Hisenior IEMs, resulting in a near slam-dunk of the Okavango over the Orchestra Lite.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

Hisenior quietly released one of the best hybrid IEMs around the USD $300 mark. The tuning switches work well, all four tunings have their place depending on one’s playlist and mood, and the general build and finish is as competitive as anything in this price range.

If I had to improve something, it would be the overall timbre. The timbral mismatch between the bass and treble is quite noticeable.

Then again, if all those things happened, the Okavango would likely be priced considerably higher. There is always a catch after all.

MY VERDICT

4.25/5

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DISCLAIMER

Get it from Hisenior Store

Our generic standard disclaimer.

You find an INDEX of our most relevant technical articles HERE.

The post Hisenior Okavango Review – Tuning Switches That Work appeared first on Music For The Masses.

The ddHiFi TC09BC is a well-made 50/100 cm long USB-C to USB-B Hifi Audio USB cable for connecting your computer to a DAC. Haptic and functionality are premium…and whether it sounds better than ??? (as claimed), well you have to read the whole article...

Introduction

I recently published an article on ddHiFi’s Mfi09S cable. It features a Lightning plug on one end, and a USB-C plug on the other, connecting an iOS device with a DAC. In my writeup I went way beyond my target – characterizing that cable – by reflecting on the general physics evolving around the question whether digital cables can make a sonic difference. After all, ddHiFi claim theirs do.

The answer is not that easy – and not as clear cut as you think. A cable is just one piece in the puzzle – and the best cable you can get is…no cable at all. But whilst there are incredible claims by some cable manufacturers, there are also wild couterclaims of “snake oil”. In reality, one cannot generalize, and the truth is somewhere in between.

I have no issues claiming that analog cables make a difference, that this is not expressed by any measurements (except perhaps impedance), and that there is no link between measurements and audible result by means of a physics equation. Such a link does not exist, although some opinionated claim it does because the measurements are “objective”. And at night it is darker than outside?

The discussion is getting even more polarized when it comes to digital cables. Proponents of the “snake oil” dismissal argue that digital cables only transport zeros and ones, hence there is no difference in quality (because it can’t happen), which also is a circular argument. That’s because none of these can tell you what the zeros and ones actually mean…which shifts the snake oil claims into the territory of the crazy company claims, that is urban myths.

If you belong to one side of the discussion, just enjoy that you save money. And if you belong to the other, enjoy the fact that you have something beautiful in your hands. But please, all of you, don’t lecture the rest of us.

Spoiler alert: bit perfect does not mean perfect data transmission, there can be contaminants in these bits. You better read my Mfi09S article. One thing for sure: a cable cannot improve sound as it cannot clean up a data stream. A cable can can only minimize deterioration of the signal. Whether that’s enough to justify its purchased is in the eye of the beholder.

The TC09BC belongs to the same series as the Mfi09S, both are technically identical, just the plugs are different. and the latter comes in shorter versions. This one is used to connect a computer with a DAC for transferring music (it can also be used as a printer cable, but only if you are a star lawyer, heart surgeon, or oligarch).

The cable comes from ddHiFi, a company y that has been on our Wall of Excellence for their combination of ingenuity and quality.

Specifications ddHiFi TC09BC

Physical Things/Technology

The materials used are in the specs above. Power line and data line are made with different wires that are well shielded against each other. The USB-C connector is rather large, therefore easy to grip, and bother connectors are made of metal and very sturdy. Fit is very snug. You find technical details on ddHiFi’s USB-data cables product page. Overall, this cable is haptically and visually very attractive.

Price wise, the TC09BC is placed between AudioQuest’s Forest and Cinnamon models.

Company Claims

ddHifi claims that the TC09BC offers a “noticeable sound quality improvement“. They fail to specify over what the improvement would be, but it appears obvious that it must be any other such cable. I therefore compare the ddHiFi TC09BC with a well-regarded USB cable.

Physical Theory

I have discussed the theoretic benefits in great detail in my ddHiFi Mfi09S article, which you find repeated behind this spoiler. TL;DR: not all digital cables a equal although they may “sound” the same in some cases…well cables don’t have a sound per se…

Listening Test

Please have a good look at the equipment. I used three different DAPs as sources, the Hidizs and TempoTec connected to the DACs by alternating USB cables (1m ddHiFi TC09BC and 3 m Belkin Gold). The Questyle connected via optical was my reference. I played the same music on all three sources.

The Belkin Gold is a discontinued USB cable that used to be Stereophile’s reference before the fancy USB cables were introduced. Audio pioneer Gordon Rankin confirmed that it is a decent cable. Today, it trades 2nd hand for horrendous prices.

The Questyle/optical combo was my test standard (as it sounded best). I used it to A/B with the other two DAPS. With the Belkin, these Hidizs and TempoTec sounded less dynamic and more subdued compared to the Questyle — independent of the DAC used.

The ddHifi TC09B really made quite a difference — and to the better. Using it, the music sounded crisper with better transparency, which resulted in better resolution and accentuation, but it still could not beat the Questyle/optical combo. In comparison, the Belkin contributed to a less clear, less nuanced sound.

This was evident when flipping (A/B-ing) between USB and optical inputs (my testing standard), which saved me comparing the USB cables against each other from memory (which is inaccurate). The quality difference between optical and ddHiF was simply smaller than with the Belkin. This indirect testing worked well.

A cable (digital or analog) cannot improve sound, it can only minimize signal deterioration.

One has to interpret this with caution, as the sound differences may also rely on other factors such as cable length (maybe the Belkin was too long). Testing the lightning version of the ddHiFi cable, the MFi9S, a while ago, I found zero difference between USB cables. This may relate to the garble/noise, that comes out of the iPhone to begin with, since it has all sorts of clocked non-audio components (cellular, Wifi etc.) — whereas the DAPS are dedicated music players. After all, a cable cannot fix a contaminated signal, it can only minimize signal deterioration.

Concluding Remarks

If you think, USB cables make no difference, then either test them, or just get them from the dollar store — and save your money.

My analysis showed that the ddHiFi TC09BC is a good USB cable that does justice to a >$2000 desktop stack (plus source). With my setup, it does sound better than the popular Belkin Gold cable I tested it against — and I therefore still use it in this application. How it fares with other setups and against really pricey cables, I don’t know. But I would not lose much sleep over it either.

Until next time…keep on listening!

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Disclaimer

THE MFi09S cable weather supplied by the ddHiFi for my review upon my request – and I thank them for that. I also thank Alberto for his input to this article.

Get them it from the DD Official Store

Our generic standard disclaimer.

About my measurements.

You find an INDEX of our most relevant technical articles HERE.

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The $265 TempoTec Serenade X “Full Balance Designed Integrated Network Streaming Music Player” is a fabulous all-in-one mid-fi player that successfully marries functionality and sound. A complete package and a true pleasure on all fronts using it. Plays even lossless via Apple AirPlay 2...

The TempoTec Serenade X was kindly provided by the manufacturer, and I thank them for that. You find more information on the TempoTec website.

Introduction

TempoTec are a Chinese company that have come a long way recently. Previously best known for their budget DACs, they stepped into the limelight with their excellent V6 Digital Analog Player, a wonderfully tuned device at around a (very attractive) $329.

I became interested in the TempoTec Serenade X because I wanted to find out what it could do for us. After all, it is an unusually looking device. In short, it can do A LOT…it streams…per internet from the usual subscription services (Tidal, Qobuz etc.), per Bluetooth from your tablet/phone, per USB from the computer, external hard drive, or simply a USB stick…and per coax or Toslink (or USB) from your CD player. Did I forget anything?

The Serenade X excels through its functionality while having a decent however standardized, prefabricated sound through 2 standard SoCs.

Specifications TempoTec Serenade X

Physical Things

In the package are the device, a screw-on Bluetooth antenna, the 12V power supply, a USB-A to USB-C cable, 1 HiBy 4.4 mm (female) to 3.5 mm (male) adapter, 1 GB USB-thumb drive, a microfibre cleaning cloth, and the usual paperwork.

The TempoTec Serenade X is an unusually shaped device and appears like the love child of a tablet computer and a RC Battery Charger.

The chassis is made of metal and the whole top is reflective glass. The latter contains a relatively small 3.2″ touch screen of intermediate resolution – which does the job for me. The build quality is fine. What may be confusing, initially, is that most functionality is handled by the touch screen, but some (for example volume) by a set of physical buttons.

The Serenade’s X footprint is rather small (12 x 10 x 4.5 cm) and all you need is a wall socket. This makes it attractive for small desks and even hotel rooms.

Technology/Architecture

The Serenade X sports a dual ESS9219C chipset (“System on Chip” or “SoC”) for a fully balanced design. This means DAC and amp are on the same chip. This saves space however creates a somewhat prefabricated sound and amplification.

And since DAC and amp cannot be separated, it is not possible to create a digital output. All outputs are therefore analog.

All functionality is controlled by a FPGA digital management circuit. Volume is controlled digitally by hardware button and by the HiByLink mobile app.

Firmware can be downloaded from the TempoTec website and easily updated via a USB stick.

Interface

Top Panel

Contains all control functions via the touch screen and a button panel. Operation is intuitive.

Back Panel: I/O

All inputs are digital, the outputs are analog. You can connect CD players, daps, DACs, and computer via S/PDIF (coax, optical), USB-A and USB-C. On the receiving end you can connect 4.4 mm plugs (headphone or amp) for balanced operation, and RCA interconnects for single-ended amplifiers.

Functionality and Operation

The Tempotec Serenade X is an incredibly versatile device.

It does

• play music through balanced headphone circuits and balanced or single ended external amplifier
• play music from wireless sources: Tidal & Qobuz (Wifi), Apple AirPlay 2 (“Apple Music”) & Bluetooth (“Spotify”) etc. (from computer, phone)
• play music from wired sources: coaxial & S/PDIF (CD player, DAC, dap), USB-A & USB-C (computer, dap, internal HiBy player)
• feature the HiBy player that can be controlled from your phone via the free HiByLink app
• let you tweak the sound with HiBy’s very smart MSEB parametric equalizer
• let you update the Firmware through a set of files downloaded directly or through a computer from the TempoTec website.

It does not have

• integrated Spotify (can be mitigated by streaming from phone/computer via Bluetooth)
• Roon capabilities
• digital outputs (cannot connect to an external DAC)
• a microSD card slot (can be mitigated by a USB adapter)

Whilst this list is somewhat overwhelming, the menu is intuitive and self explanatory. I will explain the most important features and workarounds as follows.

Menu System

The touch screen displays a compact menu that lets you access and choose the various inputs including streaming services, wireless connectivities, settings, the HiBy music player, and the MSEB (which stands for “Mage Sound 8-ball”). MSEB is a parametric, very intuitive EQ.

Wireless Options

Apple AirPlay 2 vs. Bluetooth 5.0 vs. Wifi

The Serenade offers these three wireless input possibilities.

Wifi: does not allow for direct streaming, it just transfers data to a connected drive.

Bluetooth & Apple AirPlay 2: you can play music from your computer/phone via Bluetooth (all current codecs) or Apple AirPlay 2. Both work differently.

Bluetooth uses a direct connection whereas AirPlay 2 connects via the network. This allows for bigger data streams including images so that AirPlay 2 can play lossless, Bluetooth cannot. Apple users frolic.

Streaming Services

Tidal, Qobuz: you can connect to and control Tidal and Qobuz via Wifi through the Serenade’s interface.

Apple Music: streams lossless from your phone or Mac with Apple AirPlay 2. Album art shows on Serenade X’s screen.

Spotify: There is no Spotify option in the menu, which you can stream via Bluetooth from your phone or computer. The downside is “no cover art”, just a generic screen on the Serenade X’s display.

Wired Options

Toslink/optical: CD-players, DACs, and my old Questyle QP1R dap have optical line outs.

Coaxial: works with most DACs and CD players.

USB-A, USB-C: connect your thumb drive, SSD, or similar with your music library on it.

No micro-SD card slot? Not a problem. Use a USB memory-card reader.

Integrated Option: The HiBy 3.0 Music Player with HiBy Link Remote

The Serenade X features a built-in HiBy music player which you also find in many digital analog players. It is sourced by an external drive. I use a 128 GB thumb drive. The free HiByLink app turns your phone into a remote (if your headphone cord is longer than your arms).

The HiBy music player is also on the TempoTec V6 and the Hidisz AP80 Pro-X (and many more). It is intuitive, offers lots of tweaks (for example an MSEB), and it sounds better than Apple’s Music player on my iPhone.

Sound and Amplification

As mentioned, the Serenade X features 2 standard SoCs, that is DAC and amp are on the same ESS chip. This creates a standard sound and output power as experienced, for example, in the Qudelix-5K, Hidizs XO, FiiO BTR5, a few Shanlings, and the Hidizs AP80 Pro-X dap. The amplification (see specs) is powerful enough to drive my 300 Ω  Sennheiser HD 600 with ease.

The audio engineer cannot manipulate the analog output stage and the amp, and only has the option to put fllters and/or components at the end of it, as done in the Questyle M15. I assume the latter was the case as the Serenade X sounds livelier and faster than other devices using these SoCs.

As with the peers, the sound is still off analyical-neutral into very slight colour, with good extension at both ends. What’s improved over the standard sound is better transparency and a more vivid, crisper presentation. The balanced circuit makes for an especially large headroom. I also find the resolution very good. There is no hint of stridency and the timbre is very good. I picked the finest details out of a transcribed Mozart oboe concerto.

So whilst audio snobs may role their eyes, the combination of balanced and AirPlay 2 make for a well-rounded, enjoyable listening experience.

Serenade X vs. Dongles and DAPS

After we have explored all input and out options, a compact functionality comparison with DAPs and phones with dongles is warranted.

Concluding Remarks

I usually don’t give recommendations, but this is an easy one if the special funcionality and “balanced sound quality” fits your needs. I really enjoy using the Serenade X simply because of its versatility and have done so for hours and hours: it is a small, intelligent, and reasonably powerful all-in-one device.

Until next time…keep on listening!

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Disclaimer

Our generic standard disclaimer.

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この記事の時点では、Miyabiはメーカーサイトで21.450,00円で販売されています。

「Intime Acoustic “は、欧米では全く知られていないブランドです。というのも、このブランドは非常に小さな会社で、その事業範囲は日本に限られているからです。前回の記事では、この会社について、またその技術（開発され、時にはオーナーが特許を取得したもの）についての情報をいくつか紹介しました。読者の便宜を図るため、適宜更新しながら、ここにその情報を再掲する。

同社

Intime Acousticは、高崎市（JPN）に拠点を置く、かなり若い（2016年設立）株式会社オゼイドが所有するブランドです。その本業は、実は製造ではなく、コンサルティング。

オーナー兼主要開発者の渡辺義幸氏は、35年以上にわたって圧電材料を使ったデバイスやアプリケーションに携わってきた経験を持つ。

彼の会社名「ozeid」（あるいはウェブドメイン名「o2aid」）を180度回転させてみてください。どうでしょう？ 

とはいえ、渡辺さんは、その実力の一端をイヤホンという形で、若いユーザー（渡辺さんの子供のように若い）に伝え、「日本のいい音」を伝えたいと考えているようです。

キーテクノロジー

Miyabiは、Intimeの他のモデルと同様に、10mmダイナミックドライバーと、高音域/トップオクターブを担当する特殊なセラミックツイーターのデュアルドライバーシステムをベースにしています。

Sora 2に搭載されている技術については、非常に興味深い内容がいくつもありますが、その中から主なものをピックアップしてご紹介します。

1 – “縦型スーパーツィーター”

VSTは、最も一般的に採用されている酸化チタンではなく、ある種の特殊な積層セラミックスでできています。

基本的に、積層セラミックスは振動をよりコントロールしやすいとされています。

従来のスーパーツイーターは可聴域外の音を再生するため、いわゆる「スーパー・ツイーター」と呼ばれるものですが、このIntimeのバリエーションは、そのキャリブレーションに加えて、一般的ではない素材選択により、異なる挙動を示し、倍音を再生し、可聴域の最高域に効果的に貢献します。

Miyabiは、このようなトゥイーターの「第3世代VST2」を搭載しています。渡辺氏によると、デュアルセラミックスの採用により、音圧感度を維持したままヒステリシス特性を最小化することに成功したとのことだ。

例えば3rd VSTでは、ピアノの倍音が豊かになり、サックスの飛び跳ねるような音も鮮明になるという。前作のVST（Sora 2）をベースにしたモデルを所有している私が言うのもなんですが、本当にそうなんです。

2 – グラフェンコーティング

ダイナミックドライバーにはグラフェンコーティングが施されており、渡辺氏によれば、このグラフェンコーティングが中高音域をコントロールされたパワーと鮮明さで再生する理由の一つであるとのことです。

3 – 真鍮製ハウジング

Soraシリーズとは異なり、Miyabiのハウジングは真鍮製です。渡辺氏によると、この選択はMIYABIの特徴である柔らかく深いサスティーンと低音再生に寄与しているとのこと。因果関係が正しいかどうかは分からないが、結果は間違いなく良い。

4 – HDSS

Ti3、Sora、Sora2と同様、Miyabiにも採用されているもう一つの独自技術（特許取得済み）は、High Definition Sound Standardの略で「HDSS」と呼ばれるものです。

これは筐体内部の音の反射を抑え、よりクリーンな出力を実現するためのものです。

音波の中にはハウジング内部で乱反射し、ダイナミックドライバーの振動板に衝突して、本来の目的から外れてしまうものもあります。HDSSテクノロジーでは、ハウジング内部の音はより制御され、振動板をランダムに「攻撃」することはなく、ダイナミックドライバーは信号源に「のみ」反応し、本来の動きをすることができます。

これにより、音のリアルさが増し、疲労が軽減されるとインテイムは述べています。しかし、これにはマイナス面もあります。ダイナミックドライバーの振動から高域を除去しすぎる傾向があるのです。

そこで、セラミックVST2の解像度とグラフェンコートDDの中高域のチューニングを慎重に調整し、輪郭のしっかりした、調和のとれた中高域と広い空間表現力を持つ低音を実現することが、MIYAVIが実現した大きなポイントです。

一目でわかるカード

フルデバイスカード

テストセットアップ

ソースはこちら Sony NW-A55 mrWalkman / Questyle QP1R / Tempotec V1 + E1DA 9038D – 純正チップ、RHA Dual Density Siliconチップ、Radius Deepmountチップ – XINSH 8 Core 4N pure silver+6N single crystal copper cable – ロスレス 16-24/44.1-192 FLAC tracks.

シグネチャー解析

トーナル

Miyabiの音色はマイルドなV系で、中低音と高音に控えめな段差があり、中音は処理されていないが、すべてがうまく相互調整されていて、全体として非常に心地よい表現をしている。

最も重要なことは、MIYABIが極めて「自然な」（「有機的な」）音質を提供することです。アコースティック楽器は、パリで言うところの「生」「自然」であり、聴き手には、後処理で欠点を補う前の音が届いているような、独特の「演奏現場の臨場感」を与えてくれるのです。

私のように99％アコースティックジャズを聴いている人間にとって、このようなユニークで中毒性のある体験は、すぐに貴重な財産に変わります。

サブベース

サブベースは適度に伸び、スピード感があるが、ミッドベースと比べるとパワーがやや劣る。自立した低音を再生するには十分な性能だ。

中低音

Miyabiの中低音は、速くてスラミーでありながら、明瞭で質感のある音です。中音域を大切にしながらも、しっかりとしたボディを持った低音に仕上がっている。

たまに、男性ボーカルやギターが控えめに聴こえることがあるが、これは特定の音楽ジャンルやセレクトによるもの。

ミッド

Miyabiの中音域は有機的で、リアルで、非常によく変調され、質感があります。ピアノ、チェロ、ギターは非常に自然に表現される。

中高域はエネルギッシュで艶があるが、疲労感は少ない。少なくとも私の感覚では、中高域は個人差が大きい領域だ。

男性ヴォーカル

男性ボーカル（特にテナー）は、非常によく表現され、質感があり、有機的である。低音は、特に混み合った箇所、特に非楽器が絡む箇所では、中低音と部分的にぶつかることがある。

女性ボーカル

Miyabiの女性ボーカルは男性ボーカルよりもさらに素晴らしく、オーガニックでボディがあり、時にフルート的でさえあります。シビランスに悩まされることなく、ドライバーの優れた高音域のチューニングが活かされています。

トレブル

高音域は、間違いなくMIYABIが最高のものを提供する2つの領域のうちの1つです。他のピエゾトゥイーターもいくつか聴きましたが、渡辺氏のドライバーに匹敵するようなものはありませんでした。

しかし、ほとんどの場合、IntimeのVSTはエネルギッシュで、ダイナミックで、きらびやかで、空気感がよく、ディテールがはっきりしていて、特に中毒性のあるエネルギッシュな高音を提供します。

この「有機的でブラッシーな音色」の一部は、ハウジングが真鍮で作られていることにも起因していると思います。

技術的なこと

サウンドステージ

みやびのステージの投影は非常に良い。水平方向に非常によく伸び、格別の高さを示し、奥行きも非常によい。

イメージング

MIYABIの音像は、優れた楽器セパレーションも手伝って、端正で緻密、実にリアルなものです。

詳細

Miyabiは、スペクトルのすべてのセグメントから詳細な情報を取得します。低音はこの価格帯のドライバーとしては非常に優れていますが、中音、ボーカル、高音から出る特別な熟練度に直面すると、ほとんど見劣りします。

機器分離

高音域と並んでMIYABIが得意とするのが、楽器分離です。

すべての音色が見事に核融合され、まるでステージ上、あるいはステージの目の前にいるような臨場感で重なり合い、さまざまな演奏家、そのパフォーマンス、能力、そしてミス（！）が一緒に起こっているのがほとんど「見える」ような感覚に陥ります。

Miyabiが提供するものと同等以上のしっかりとしたノートボディと結びついた分離の明瞭さは、私の経験では、Dunu ZenのようなIEM（Miyabiの+4倍の予算）に関わるまで遭遇することはできないでしょう。

ドライバビリティ

Miyabiの感度は控えめなので、自明でないアンプが必要です。過度なものではありませんが、スマートフォンに頼るのは避けた方が良いでしょう。

しかし、インピーダンスはそれほど低くないので、MIYABIが必要とするパワーを供給できるソース、ダックアンプ、ドングルが豊富にあることは良いニュースです。

物理的側面

ビルド

ハウジングは無垢の真鍮製で、「真鍮のような」暖かく有機的なアコースティックな音色を実現することを意図しています。

バックエンドは亀甲色の樹脂で、「匠」と呼ばれる日本の技術で成形されています。そのため、色合いにばらつきがあり、同じものが2つとありません。この樹脂製のバックエンドと真鍮製のメインチャンバーが、非常にスタイリッシュなアンサンブルを生み出しています。雅 “とは、まさに “エレガント、スタイリッシュ “という意味です。

フィット感

Miyabiのような太い弾丸型は、私にとってとてもフィットしやすいものです。

純正チップは音質的には良いのですが、少し柔らかすぎるようで、ハウジングの重さや形状などと相まって、なぜか左耳のドライバーが左耳の中で密閉性を失いがちなのです。

数十の選択肢の中から「いつもの」長くて退屈なローテーションをした後、MiyabiのケースではRHAのデュアルデンシティ・シリコンチップが私にとって最も効果的であることを発見したのです。

快適性

非常に主観的です。個人的には、すべての弾丸型ハウジングと同じように、非常に快適だと思います。

アイソレーション

弾丸の形状からコンチャのシールドはありませんが、それでも彼らの「太った」体型はプラスに働きます。

ケーブル

渡辺さんも苦労されたのでしょうが、純正ケーブルでは感動がありませんでした。いろいろ試した結果、引き出しにあったXINSHの8芯ハイブリッド（4N純銀＋6N単結晶銅）に落ち着きました。

また、IEMハウジングのMMCXコネクターは、Intimeが自社開発したものであることも重要です。この選択は彼らが良かれと思ってしたことだと思いますが、私が試したサードパーティ製のケーブルはすべて同じようにクリックできるわけではなく、中には接続が不安定になるものさえありました（私が持っている他のすべてのMMCX IEMに同じケーブルを接続した場合とは異なります）。渡辺さんは、この点について調べたほうがいいかもしれませんね。

仕様

比較対象

Tanchjim Oxygen ($ 250)

Miyabiは全体的に暖かく、中低音にアクセントがあるのに対し、Oxygenは高音に柔らかいアクセントがあるものの、よりバランスよくニュートラルな印象です。Miyabiの生々しい音色や色付けはOxygenには全くなく、ほとんど透明である。

楽器の分離とマイクロダイナミクスは、混み合った中低域を除き、どこでもMiyabiが有利で、どちらも（理由は異なるが）業界最高レベルである。高音域の表現はMiyabiの方がより有機的で、特に金属楽器はOxygenの方が細部まできれいに再現されます。

Ikko OH1S ($ 159)

OH1SとMiyabiの比較でまず気づくのは、明らかにOH1Sの方が音の重みが薄いということです。OH1Sは、MIYABIのエネルギッシュで筋肉質で “Thetral “なサウンドと比べると、よりスリムで表現力が乏しく、色気もない。

OH1SのDDはMIYABIに比べると速いが解像度は高くないので、OH1Sの中低音は膨張しないが、質感や有機性は明らかに劣る。何よりも楽器の分離がMIYABIに軍配が上がる。OH1Sは高域の侵襲が強く、MIYABIのエネルギッシュで抑制の効いた高域に比べると、時折ショッパイ音に聞こえることがある。

Ikko OH10 ($ 199)

OH10はMIYABIに比べ、サブバスは盛り上がっていますが、ミッドバスは少なめです。そして何より、OH10はMIYABIに比べ低音のスピード感があり、ドライな印象があるため、すっきりしている反面、表現力や質感に乏しい印象があります。また、これだけ綺麗なのに、低音を含めた全帯域の分離はMIYABIの方がOH10より良い。

OH10は音の重さも無駄がなく、音色も生意気ではない。管楽器やハイハット、クラッシュの生々しさはMIYABIに比べるとかなり劣る。中音はかなり引っ込んでいて、ボーカルも比較にならない（意図的にそうしているのだろう）。

Dunu Zen ($700)

Zenの低音はMiyabiに比べてスピード感があり、よりコントロールされている。楽器の分離はMIYABIが優れているが、ZENの方が全帯域で優れている。Zenの音色は暖かみがあるが、音色は極めてニュートラルである。Miyabiは中低域がやや太いだけでなく、中高域の音像が重く、金管楽器のような音色を持つため、より暖かみがある。

中高域はZenの方がすっきりしているが、エネルギッシュで表情豊かな感じはない。上の方はMiyabiの方が断然空気感がある。細部の再現性はZenの方が優れているが、高価格帯の製品にありがちな差はない。

考察と結論

5～600ドル以下のIEMで、MIYABIのように高度に洗練された技術、有機的で生き生きとした音色、エネルギッシュな表現力を同等に心地よくミックスしてくれるものは、そう多くはないでしょう。そして、Miyabiの200ドル以下の価格では、さらに少ないでしょう。

私にとっては、これは素晴らしい素材だ。私は、Miyabiを優秀作品の壁に貼り付けることを検討するために、コブロガーたちの意見を集める作業を開始しました。

この記事で紹介したMIYABIのサンプルは、個人的に購入したもので、渡辺氏とは一切コンタクトがありません。

Our generic standard disclaimer.

The post Intime Miyabi 雅 アンティーム レビュ- 唯一無二の特別感 appeared first on Music For The Masses.

Al momento della pubblicazione di questo articolo le Miyabi sono in vendita sul sito del produttore, in Giappone, per 21.450,00 Yen, cioè circa 150 €. Ne servono altri 30 circa per farsi inoltrare il pacchetto da un servizio come Tenso, o simili.

“Intime Acoustic” è un marchio per nulla noto in Occidente, essendo di proprietà di un’azienda molto piccola, e che limita il proprio orizzonte commerciale al Giappone, dove ha sede. Nel mio articolo precedente ho dedicato qualche riga all’azienda, e alla sua tecnologia (sviluppata e in parte anche brevettata dal titolare). Riporto qui sotto molte di quelle informazioni, con gli aggiornamenti del caso.

Intime Acoustic, alias Ozeid Co., alias O2aid.com…

Intime Acoustic è un marchio di proprietà di Ozeid Co., Ltd., un’azienda relativamente giovane (fondata nel 2016) con sede a Takasaki City in Giappone. La sua attività principale non è la produzione, in realtà, ma la consulenza.

Il titolare, e direttore tecnico è il sig. Yoshiyuki Watanabe, forte di 35 e più anni di esperienza a proposito di macchine, sistemi e applicazioni che utilizzano materiali piezoelettrici.

Cosa si ottiene ribaltando di 180° il nome “ozeid” (e ancor meglio il nome “o2aid”) ?… 

Qualche anno fa Watanabe-san decise di applicare la sua competenza alla produzione di auricolari, con l’obbiettivo di compiacere utenti giovani – come i suoi figli – a cui trasferire “il bel suono del Giappone“.

Tecnologie principali

Analogamente ad altri modelli della gamma Intime, le Miyabi sono basate su sistema a doppio trasduttore: uno a membrana dinamica da 10mm dedicato alle basse e medie frequenze, più un tweeter alquanto speciale, in ceramica, responsabile della resa delle alte frequenze e dell’ultima ottava.

Sono disponibili un bel po’ di dettagli tecnici interessanti a proposito della tecnologia all’interno delle Miyabi, cerco di sintetizzarli.

1 – “Vertical Super Tweeter”

Il VST è realizzato da una qualche specie laminato ceramico, una scelta molto diversa rispetto all’ossido di titanio più comunemente utilizzato allo scopo.

In sintesi le lamine ceramiche offrono maggior possibilità di controllo delle vibrazioni.

I “super tweeters” convenzionali sono chiamati così perché riproducono suoni fuori della gamma udibile. Intime ne ha realizzato una variante che, grazie al diverso materiale e alle loro calibrazioni, ha un comportamento diverso e riproduce sfumature udibili, contribuendo così efficacemente alla resa della parte più alta dello spettro.

Sulle Miyabi sono installati tweeters “VST2 di terza generazione”. Secondo l’ing. Watanabe le migliorie in questa evoluzione del progetto consistono nell’adozione di doppia ceramica, che minimizza il comportamento isteretico a parità di sensibilità alla pressione sonora.

I tweeter VST di terza generazione offrono mogliori sfumature sulle note del pianoforte, e migliore nitidezza sui salti tonale di un sassofono. Possedendo io un modello basato su una precedente versione di VST (Sora 2) posso in effetti confermare l’esistenza delle migliorie.

2 – Rivestimento in grafene

Sulla membrana dinamica del trasduttore principale è applicato un rivestimento in grafene che – sempre secondo Watanabe – è tra i motivi che portano i suoi trasduttori dinamici a riprodurre le frequenze medie e medioalte con ottimo controllo e buona definizione.

3 – Struttura esterna in ottone

A differenza di quanto avviene per la linea Sora, la carrozzeria delle IEM Miyabi è realizzata in ottone. Secondo Watanabe l’ottone contribuisce ad ammorbidire il suono e ad approfondire la resa dei bassi e il sustain delle note. Non so certificare che la relazione causa-effetto sia quella, ma il risultato c’è, ed è buono.

4 – HDSS

Un’altra tecnologia originale (e brevettata, in realtà) adottata all’interno delle Miyabi, come anche all’interno di altri modelli Intime come Ti3, Sora, Sora2, è denominata “HDSS” come “High Definition Sound Standard”.

Il suo scopo è eliminare i suoni riflessi all’interno della struttura degli auricolari, producendo un suono più pulito.

All’interno della struttura dell’auricolare, normalmente alcune onde sonore vengono riflesse dalle pareti e rimbalzano sul diaframma del trasduttore, producendo dissonanza rispetto al risultato voluto. Grazie alla tecnologia HDSS la propagazione del suono all’interno della struttura viene tenuta sotto controllo, e si evita che questo “investa” il diaframma del trasduttore in modo incontrollato, il quale quindi si troverà a vibrare “solo” in conseguenza del segnale elettrico che riceve – esattamente come dovrebbe – senza “ulteriori” fonti spurie di energia.

L’accorgimento – secondo Intime – aumenta il realismo del suono e riduce l’affaticamento sull’impianto uditivo dell’utilizzatore. Ha tuttavia un contro: tende a “ripulire” un po’ troppo le vibrazioni del trasduttore dinamico, eliminando troppa parte delle alte frequenze.

E’ qui che viene in soccorso l’accurata calibrazione tra il tweeter ceramico VST2 e la parte di medie e medio-alte frequenze riprodotte dal trasduttore dinamico arricchito col grafene. Il risultato è un basso con profilo compatto e nitido, una gamma medio-alta armoniosa e una ampia riproduzione spaziale – tutte cose effettivamente presenti sulle Miyabi !

A colpo d’occhio

Scheda completa

Ambienti di prova

Fonti: Sony NW-A55 mrWalkman / Questyle QP1R / Tempotec V1 + E1DA 9038D – Terminali silicone Spinfit CP-145 – cavo Dunu DUW-02S – tracce audio 16-24/44.1-192 FLAC.

Analisi della caratteristica sonora

Tonalità

La caratteristica tonale delle Miyabi è una V morbida, con modeste accentuazioni sui bassi medi e sui medi alti, medie frequenze non incassate, il tutto ben reciprocamente calibrato tanto da offrire una presentazione complessivamente molto piacevole.

Più importante ancora, le Miyabi offrono un timbro in-cre-di-bil-men-te “bio” (“naturale”), tanto che possono a volte sembrare eccessivamente intransigenti, quasi “grezze”. Gli strumenti acustici vengono trasmessi con un suono percepito come originario, “nudo”, nature – offrendo la sensazione davvero realistica di “presenza sulla scena”, di ricezione del suono prima di qualsiasi elaborazione di pulizia e pettinatura delle imperfezioni.

Per chi come me ascolta per il 99% del suo tempo jazz acustico le Miyabi offrono un’esperienza originale che produce assuefazione e le rende rapidamente un elemento preziosissimo del proprio ambiente audio.

Sub-Basso

Il sub-basso delle Miyabi è moderatamente esteso, veloce, ed un pochino meno evidente rispetto al basso medio. Più che adeguato alla resa del contrabbasso acustico.

Basso medio

Il basso medio delle Miyabi è veloce e potente, eppure articulato e dotato di trama. E’ evidentemente accentuato rispetto alla neutralità, il che offre un ottimo corpo p.es. al contrabbasso riuscendo però a restare quasi sempre rispettoso dell’autonomia della gamma media .

Solo occasionalmente e/o in alcuni generi musicali può capitare di trovare le gamme medie, le voci umane e le chitarre un po’ soggiogate al basso medio.

Medi

Le medie frequenze trasmesse dalle Miyabi sono naturali, realistiche, ben modulate e offrono una ottima tramatura – tutto ciò senza essere eccessivamente avanti nella presentazione generale. Pianoforte, violoncello e chitarra sono tutti resi in modo eccezionalmente naturale.

Le frequenze medio-alte sono energiche e luminose, pur restando sempre non affaticanti – quanto meno per i miei gusti, YMMV (conosciamo la questione: i medio-alti sono una di quelle aree sonore dove la sensibilità personale gioca un ruolo importante nel gradimento).

Voci maschili

Le voci maschili, con particolare riguardo ai tenori, sono rese molto bene, realisticamente naturali e dotate di buona trama. Le voci baritonali e basse possono occasionalmente entrare in conflitto con i toni bassi medi in passaggi musicali particolarmente affollati, specialmente quando sono coinvolti strumenti non acustici.

Voci femminili

Le voci femminili sono rese dalle Miyabi ancor meglio di quelle maschili: naturali, corpose, a volte quasi flautate. Non scadono mai nel sibilante, sembrano proprio tra i migliori risultati dell’ottima calibrazione dei medio alti eseguita sui trasduttori.

Alti

Senza dubblio gli alti sono tra gli aspetti per i quali le Miyabi offrono il meglio. Ho ascoltato più di qualche altro auricolare con tweeter piezo, e nessuno è all’altezza di quanto l’ottimo ing Watanabe è in grado di spremere dalle sue creazioni.

C’è un leggeriiiiiissimo “timbro piezo” che spunta molto raramente qua e là, ma nella quasi totalità del tempo d’ascolto i VST Intime regalano alti energici, dinamici, scoppiettanti, alquanto ariosi, ben dettagliati e soprattutto godevolissimi.

Mi piace credere che parte del timbro “ottone naturale” delle Miyabi sia legato al fatto che la struttura della camera acustica sia in effetti… in ottone.

Tecnicità

Palcoscenico

La proiezione scenica delle Miyabi è ottima. Lo spazio è molto ampio orizzontalmente, eccezionalmente esteso verticalmente, ed offre una buona profondità.

Immagine sonora

Anche grazie all’eccezionale capacità di separazione strumentale, l’immagine sonora proiettata dalle Miyabi è pulita, precisa e molto realistica.

Dettagli

Le Miyabi trasmettono una miriade di dettagli sonori da tutti i segmenti dello spettro. La risoluzione sui bassi, seppure molto buona in termini assoluti per auricolari di questa classe di prezzo, quasi impallidisce poi rispetto al risultato offerto sulle medie frequenze, le voci, e gli alti.

Separazione strumentale

Unitamente alle alte frequenze, la separazione strumentale è l’altra area di eccellenza assoluta per le Miyabi, che in questo offrono risultati che possono essere ritrovati solo su alcuni (!) prodotti di classe e prezzo (!!) molto, molto superiori.

Tutti gli strumenti sono spettacolarmente enucleati gli uni dagli altri, e stratificati in modo che all’ascoltatore arrivi una sensazione molto realistica di presenza sulla scena, o immediamente di fronte ad essa. E’ quasi possibile “vedere” i vari suonatori, la loro performance, e i loro errori (!).

Per trovare un livello di pulizia nella separazione strumentale associata a ottima corposità delle note superiore a quanto ascolto sulle Miyabi devo, per mia esperienza, “scomodare” auricolari come le Dunu Zen – a circa 4 volte il costo di un paio di Miyabi.

Pilotabilità

Le Miyabi hanno una sensibilità alquanto modesta (100dB/mW) richiedono quindi un’amplificazione non banalissima. Nulla di eccessivo, ma è meglio evitare di fare affidamento sulle capacità interne di un normale smartphone.

Una buona notizia è che la loro impedenza non è ultra-bassa. C’è quindi quasi l’imbarazzo della scelta di fonti, dac/amp o dongle capaci di produrre la potenza d’uscita necessaria a fare cantare correttamente le Miyabi.

Aspetti fisici

Struttura

La carrozzeria e la camera acustica delle Miyabi sono in ottone, con il dichiarato intento di offrire un timbro acustico tiepido, naturale, simile appunto ad un ottone.

La parte posteriore è in resina color tartaruga, stampata con una tecnica giapponese chiamata Takumi. Il risultato è una colorazione casualmente variegata che rende ogni paio unico naturalmente. L’accoppiata tra il retro in resina e la camera acustica frontale in ottone ha uno stile estetico alquanto piacevole. Miyabi in giapponese vuole in effetti dire qualcosa di simile a “elegante”.

Indossabilità

Le IEM a forma di proiettile (grasso, in questo caso) sono molto comode per me.

I terminali in silicone forniti a corredo sono di buona qualità ma li trovo un pochino troppo morbidi, e se a questo aggiungo che gli auricolari non sono leggerissimi, mi succede che usando quelli l’auricolare sinistro tende a perdere aderenza dal canale uditivo (il mio sinistro è un po’ più ampio del destro).

Dopo la “solita” lunga e noiosa rotazione tra le 3 dozzine di terminali di vario tipo che ho a disposizione alla fine mi sono deciso per gli Spinfit CP-145.

Comfort

Molto soggettivo. Personalmente le trovo molto confortevoli, come mi capita per molti se non tutti gli auricolari a forma di proiettile.

Isolamento

La forma a proiettile non offre schermatura della conca naturalmente, anche se il calibro decisamente “grasso” un pochino aiuta.

Cavo

Nonostante lo sforzo che anche in questo l’ing Watanabe ha sicuramente profuso, il cavo fornito a corredo non mi ha impressionato per qualità. Dopo varie prove ho scelto un Dunu DUW-02S che effettivamente migliora sensibilmente le Miyabi in termini di apertura sonora, separazione e stratificazione.

Credo sia altresì importante notare come non tutti i cavi di terza parte che ho provato sulle mie Miyabi offrissero un “click” ugualmente convincente al momento della connessione alle prese MMCX, e in un paio di casi la connessione stessa si è dimostrata persino instabile (al contrario di quanto avviene quando gli stessi cavi sono connessi a un qualsiasi altro paio di IEM tra quelle che possiedo). Un punto di attenzione per l’ing. Watanabe.

In ultimo: ho notizia che da una certa data in avanti Ozeid ha iniziato ad offrire il proprio cavo top di gamma (“M Kanade”) a corredo delle Miyabi. Mi riservo di provarne uno per verificare una molto migliore sinergia rispetto all’ M Sound che ho ricevuto insieme alle mie Miyabi, di produzione precedente.

Specifiche (dichiarate dal costruttore)

Confronti

Tanchjim Oxygen (250 $)

Le Miyabi sono complessivamente più calde, con un evidente accento sui bassi medi. Le Oxygen sono più bilanciate-neutre, e se un accento mostrano sta piuttosto sui medi alti. Il timbro ottonale delle Miyabi è totalmente assente dalle Oxygen, che sono fondamentalmente trasparenti.

Separazione strumentale e microdinamica sono a favore delle Miyabi praticamente sempre, tranne in casi di passaggi particolarmente fitti di varie voci sui bassi medi – situazione nella quale né Miyabi né Oxygen, per diversi motivi, esprimono il meglio. La resa degli alti è più naturale sulle Miyabi, con particolare riguardo agli strumenti metallici – sulle Oxygen invece si presentano più puliti anche se un pochino meno dettagliati.

Ikko OH1S (159 $)

La prima cosa che si nota confrontando le OH1S con le Miyabi è l’evidente minor corpo nelle note delle prime. Le OH1S suonano più magre e quindi meno espressive, per contro meno colorate, a fronte delle Miyabi più energiche, muscolari e “teatrali”.

Il trasduttore dinamico delle OH1S è più veloce ma non ha maggiore risoluzione di quello sulle Miyabi. Perciò il basso delle OH1S è meno gonfio ma si presenta anche meno naturale e meno strutturato. Soprattutto: la separazione strumentale è totalmente a favore delle Miyabi. Le OH1S hanno medi alti più invasivi, che a volte possono presentarsi troppo squillanti, a fronte di quelli più energici, ma più controllati, delle Miyabi.

Ikko OH10 (199 $)

Sulle OH10 il sub basso è più elevato, ma il basso medio lo è meno rispetto alle Miyabi. Soprattutto, il basso delle OH10 è più veloce e asciutto e quindi suona più pulito da un lato, ma meno espressivo e strutturato dall’altro. Inoltre, anche nonostante questa maggior pulizia delle OH10, la separazione strumentale delle Miyabi su tutto lo spettro – inclusi i bassi – resta superiore.

Sulle OH10 le note hanno corpo più magro, e il timbro ottonale è assente. Gli strumenti a fiato e i piatti suonano meno vividi che sulle Miyabi. I medi sulle OH10 sono molto più indietro, e le voci umane non sono nemmeno confrontabili a quelle delle Miyabi (intenzionalmente, aggiungerei).

Dunu Zen (700$)

Il basso delle Zen è più veloce di quello delle Miyabi, e più controllato, ed offre migliore microdinamica. La separazione strumentale, seppure ottima sulle Miyabi, è ancor migliore sulle Zen, su tutto lo spettro. Le Zen hanno una tonalità tiepida, ma il loro timbro è naturale. Le Miyabi sono più calde, non solo a causa del basso medio più corposo ma soprattutto al maggior corpo delle note medie e medio alte, e al timbro ottonale.

I medi alti sono più puliti sulle Zen ma anche meno energici ed espressivi. Le Miyabi sono inoltre più ariose in alto. Le Zen offrono miglior dettaglio su tutto lo spettro, sebbene la differenza in questo rispetto alle Miyabi non corrisponda alla differenza tra i loro prezzi.

Considerazioni e conclusioni

Non conosco molte IEM che costino meno di 5-600$ e in grado di offrire un simile mix di tecnicità altamente raffinate e timbro naturale, vivo ed ergetico. Ed ancor meno ne conosco se cerco tra quelle che costano meno di 200$, come le Miyabi.

Per me questo è materiale eccellente. Ho avviato il processo di raccolta delle opinioni dei coblogger al fine dell’inserimento delle Miyabi sul Wall of Excellence.

Il campione Miyabi di cui parlo in questo articolo è un acquisto personale. Non sono incorsi contatti con il sig Watanabe.

La versione originale di questo, come per tutti gli altri miei articoli, è in lingua inglese.

Our generic standard disclaimer.

The post Recensione Di Intime Miyabi – Speciale Unicità appeared first on Music For The Masses.

At the time of this article, Miyabi sells on the manufacturer’s site for JPY 21.450,00 which is approximately $ 150. Add another $ 30 to have that reforwaded to EU / USA by a service like Tenso or equivalent.

“Intime Acoustic” is not a known brand at all in the west, as it comes from a very small company limiting its commercial horizon to Japan, where it’s based. In my previous article I spent some lines about the company, and about the technology (developed, and sometimes even patented by the company’s owner) involved. I’m echoing such information here below, with appropriate updates, for the reader’s convenience.

Intime Acoustic, a.k.a. Ozeid Co., a.k.a O2aid.com…

Intime Acoustic is a brand owned by Ozeid Co., Ltd., a quite young (2016-founded) Takasaki City (JPN) based company. Its main business is actually not manufacturing, but consulting.

The owner and key developer Mr Yoshiyuki Watanabe has 35+ years of experience on devices and applications that use piezoelectric materials.

Rotate his company name “ozeid” (or even better its web domain name “o2aid”) by 180°. What do you read ? 

That said, mr Watanabe also decided to deliver some of his competence in form of earphones, targeting young users – young like his children – aiming to convey (in his own words) “the good sound of Japan“.

Key technologies

Similarly to other models in Intime lineup, Miyabi is based on a dual-driver system including a 10mm dynamic driver, and a somewhat special ceramic tweeter taking care of the upper treble / top octave end.

A number of very interesting details are available regarding the technology inside Sora 2, let me summarise what the main claims are.

1 – “Vertical Super Tweeter”

VST is made of some sort of special laminated ceramics, instead of the most commonly adopted titanium oxide.

Fundamentally, laminated ceramics is supposed to offer more controllable vibrations.

Conventional “super tweeters” are so-called as they reproduce sounds outside the audible range, but this Intime’s variation, thanks to the uncommon material selection in addition to their calibrations, has a different behaviour and reproduces overtones, effectively contributing to the highest-end part of the audible spectrum.

The Miyabi feature “third-generation VST2” of such tweeters. According to mr Watanabe the improvement has to do with adopting dual ceramics, which ensures that the hysteresis characteristics are minimized, while sound pressure sensitivity is maintained.

For example, 3rd VST is supposed to offer richer overtones on piano notes, and crisper notes on a jumping saxophone. Owning a model based on a previous VST iteration (Sora 2) I can testify this is really the case.

2 – Graphene coating

A graphene coating has been applied to the Dynamic Driver unit, which – always according to mr Watanabe – is amongst the reasons why his drivers reproduce mid-high range frequencies with controlled power and good definition.

3 – Brass housings

Unlike what happens on the Sora line, Miyabi housings are made of brass. According to mr Watanabe, this choice contributes to delivery Miyabi’s signature soft, deep sustain and bass reproduction. I don’t know if the cause-effect liaison is right, but the result definitely is good.

4 – HDSS

Another unique (and patented, actually) technology adopted inside Miyabi, as much as inside Ti3, Sora, Sora2 too, is called “HDSS” as in High Definition Sound Standard.

Its purpose is to suppress sound reflections inside the housing, resulting in cleaner output.

Some sound waves are commonly uncontrolledly reflected inside the housing, impacting onto the dynamic driver diaphragm, causing dissonance from the intended purpose. With HDSS technology, the sound inside the housings is more controlled and does not “invest” the diaphragm randomly, allowing the dynamic driver to move “only” as a consequence to the signal source, as indeed it should.

This – according to Intime – increases sound realism and decreases fatigue. It has a down side though: it tends to purge too much of the high frequencies off the dynamic driver vibration.

This is where a careful calibration between the resolution of the ceramic VST2 and the mid-high range tuning of the graphene coated DD becomes vital, resulting in a bass with a solid outline, harmonious mid-high range and wide spatial expression – as in facts Miyabi does deliver, big time !

At-a-glance Card

Full Device Card

Test setup

Sources: Sony NW-A55 mrWalkman / Questyle QP1R / Tempotec V1 + E1DA 9038D – Spinfit CP-145 tips – Dunu DUW-02S cable – lossless 16-24/44.1-192 FLAC tracks.

Signature analysis

Tonality

Miyabi’s tonality is a mild V, with modest bumps in the midbass and highmids, and unrecessed mids, all well reciprocally calibrated to offer a very pleasant overall presentation.

Most importantly, Miyabi offer an in-cre-di-bly “natural” (“organic”) timbre, so much that some may find it excessively unforgiving, almost “crude”. Acoustic instruments come across sort of raw, unadultered, nature they’d say in Paris – which grants the auditioner a unique “presence on the performance scene” sensation, as if sound were delivered to them prior to any postprocessing combing imperfections or such.

For someone like me listening for 99% of his time to acoustic jazz this is a unique, addictive experience which quickly turns into an invaluable asset.

Sub-Bass

Sub bass is moderately extended, fast, but a bit subduded in power vs midbass. More then adequate to render standup bass.

Mid Bass

Miyabi’s midbass is fast and slammy, yet articulated and textured. It’s evidently bumped up, offering very solid body to standup bass while staying respectful of mids at virtually all times.

Only occasionally and/or on specific musical genres or selections male vocals or guitars may come accross a bit subdued.

Mids

Miyabi’s mids are organic, realistic, very well modulated and textured – this in spite of them not being particularly forward. Pianos, cellos and guitars are very naturally rendered.

High mids are energetic and shiny, but always south of fatiguing – at least in my books, YMMV (we know the drill: highmids are one of those areas where personal sensitivity varies a lot).

Male Vocals

Male vocals, with particular regards to tenors, are very well rendered, textured and credibly organic. Bass voices may occasionally partially conflict with midbass on particularly crowded passages, especially when non-acoustic instruments are involed.

Female Vocals

Miyabi’s female vocals are even better than male: organic, bodied, at times even flutey. Never scanting into sibilance, they take advantage of the driver’s superb highmids tuning.

Highs

Trebles are no doubt one of the two areas on which Miyabi offers their best. I did hear a few other piezo tweeters, but simply not one holds a candle to what mr Watanabe can make his drivers deliver.

There is a veeeery faint “piezo timbre” occasionally emerging, but for the vast majority of the cases Intime’s VST deliver energetic, dynamic, sparkly, quite airy, well detailed and most of all addictively energetic treble.

I like to assume that part of the “organically brassy timbre” result is also due to the housings being made of… brass, indeed.

Technicalities

Soundstage

Miyabi’s stage projection is very good. The room is very well extended horizontally, shows an exceptional height, and very good depth.

Imaging

Helped by outstanding instrument separation, Miyabi’s imaging is neat, precise and very realistic.

Details

Miyabi retrieve tons of detail from all segments of the spectrum. The bass part, while very good in absolute terms for a driver of this price category, almost pales when faced with the special proficiency coming out from mids, vocals and trebles.

Instrument separation

Together with treble, instrument separation is the other area on which Miyabi deliver a quality which can only be found on selected, much higher class (and price) competition.

All voices are spectacularly enucleated from one another, and layered in a way that the auditioner has a very realist sensation of being on the stage, or just in front of it, and can almost “see” the various players, their performance, abilities, and mistakes (!) happening together.

Separation clarity coupled to solid note body similar or better to what Miyabi offers cannot be encountered for my experience until engaging with IEMs the like of Dunu Zen – at +-4 times Miyabi’s budget.

Driveability

Miyabi’s sensitivity is modest so they do call for some non-trivial amping. Nothing excessive, don’t worry, but it’s best not to rely on a mere smartphone in their case.

A piece of good news is however that their impedance is not ultra-low, so there’s a thicker flock of sources, dac-amps and dongles which are able to deliver the power Miyabi requires.

Physicals

Build

Housings are made of solid brass, with the declared intention to deliver a “brass-like”, warm-ish, organic, acoustic timbre.

Their back end is in tortoise-color resin, moulded adopting a japanese tecnique called Takumi. The result is uneven in terms of colouring, resulting in no two units be identical. The resin back-end paired with the brass main chambers make for a quite stylish ensemble. Miyabi is indeed japanese for “elegant, stylish”.

Fit

Fat bullet shapes like Miyabi’s are very easy to fit for me.

Stock tips are good in terms of sound results but I found them a tad too soft, which paired with the housings’ weight, their shape etc, for whatever reason makes my left driver tend to lose its seal inside my left ear.

After the “usual” lenghty and boring rotation amongst a couple of dozen alternatives I settled on Spinfit CP-145.

Comfort

Very subjective. I personally find them extremely comfortable, like for most if not all bullet shaped housings.

Isolation

No concha shielding due to bullet shape, but their “fat” build contributes positively nonetheless.

Cable

In spite of the effort that I’m sure mr Watanabe put on it, too, I wasn’t impressed by the stock cable. After some trials, I settled onto a Dunu DUW-02S which is significantly upgrading the Miyabi in terms of spatial openness, layering and separation.

It’s also important to note that not all third party cables I tried onto my Miyabi clicked the same way, and a couple of them even resulted in unstable connectivity (unlike what happens when the same cable is connected to all other MMCX IEMs I have). Mr Watanabe may want to look into this.

Last but probably not least, I understand Ozeid is now bundling their high end cable (M Kanade) with Miyabi. Looking forward into getting one to check a very likely better pairing.

Specifications (declared)

Comparisons

Tanchjim Oxygen ($ 250)

Miyabi is overall warmer, with an evident accent on midbass compared to Oxygen which is more balanced-neutral, if something with a soft accent on highmids. Miyabi’s brassy timbre and coloration is totally absent on Oxygen, which is mostly transparent.

Instrument separation and microdynamics are in favour of Miyabi everywhere except on crowded midbass passages, where neither – for different causes – is at the industry’s best. Treble rendering is more organic on Miyabi, with special regards to metal instruments – Oxygen on the other hand comes across cleaner if a tad less detailed.

Ikko OH1S ($ 159)

The first thing one notices about OH1S vs Miyabi is the obviously thinner note weight delivered by the former. OH1S sounds leaner and therefore less expressive if also less colored compared with the more energetic, muscular and “thetral” Miyabi.

OH1S DD is faster but not better resolving compared to Miyabi’s so OH1S’s midbass is less inflated but also evidently less textured and organic. Most of all, instrument separation is all in favor of Miyabi. OH1S also has more invasive highmids which may occasionally sound shoutier compared to the energetic but controlled ones on Miyabi.

Ikko OH10 ($ 199)

OH10’s sub bass is more elevated but midbass is less compared to Miyabi. Most of all, OH10’s bass is faster and dryer compared to Miyabi’s so it sounds cleaner on one end, but less expressive and textured on the other. Also, even in spite of such higher cleanness, Miyabi’s separation all over the spectrum including the bass is better compared to OH10’s.

OH10’s note weight is also leaner and the timbre is not brassy. Wind instruments and hihats and crashes sound much less vivid compared to Miyabi. Mids are much more recessed and vocals are not even comparable (by design, I would say).

Dunu Zen ($700)

Zen’s bass is faster compared to Miyabi’s, and more controlled. Instrument separation, though superb on Miyabi, is better on Zen all along the spectrum. Zen’s tonality is warm, but its timbre is quite neutral. Miyabi is warmer, not only due to somewhat fatter midbass but mainly due to heavier note body on the mids and highmids, and its brass-metallic timbre.

High mids are cleaner on Zen but also less energetic and expressive. Miyabi is definitely airier up above. Zen has a better detail retrieval all over the spectrum, although not by the same margin as its higher price tag might suggest.

Considerations & conclusions

I can’t name many IEMs costing less than $5-600 and delivering an equivalently pleasant mix of highly refined technicalities, organic, lifelike timbre and energetic presentation like Miyabi do. And even less at Miyabi’s sub-200$ price.

To me this is excellent material. I initiated the process to collect cobloggers’ opinions to consider sticking Miyabi on our Wall of Excellence.

The Miyabi sample I reported about in this article is a personal purchase, no contact incurred with Mr Watanabe.

Our generic standard disclaimer.

The post Intime Miyabi 雅 アンティーム Review – Uniquely Special appeared first on Music For The Masses.

The ddHiFi MFi09S is a 10/50 cm long Lightning to USB-C cable claimed to make an obvious sonic difference. This article also generally addresses the contentious issue of sound improvement by digital cables.

Introduction

ddHiFi have been one of the most innovative companies for portable audio. They produce functional, imaginative, high quality accessories, from bags, through cables to adapters, and even a couple of earphones. Their latest endeavour is the Nyx series of audiophile digital cables, which are all share the same wire material and insulation: a USB-B to USB-A, a USB-C to USB-C, a Ligthning to USB-A and a Lightning to USB-C for connecting iPhones to a DAC.

Therefore, today we are…no, that was already last week. And its only me once again. Therefore, in this article, I examine the ddHifi MFi09S Lightning to USB-C, mainly for its sonic capabilities. There are many crying “snake oil” now (and pull out some questionable measurements in their support), but whining is one thing, and listening is another. As we will see, the situation is not as black and white as it seems.

This article also has another purpose: to summarize our current knowledge of digital data transfer in layman’s terms. Although this is presented rather compact, you may want to re-visite this article for the occasional refresher.

Specifications MFi9S

Physical Things/Technology

You have seen the materials used in the specs above. Power line and data line are made with different wires that are well shielded against each other. The connectors are rather large, therefore easy to grip, and they are very rugged. These plugs fit even the smallest phone case. The cable as such feels substantial but it is a bit stiff, which works better for the shorter 10 cm version. You find technical details on ddHiFi’s USB-data cables product page. Overall, this cable is haptically and visually very attractive.

The MFi09’s lightning connector features a decoding chip which draws a small current from the phone. I did not test this one specifically, but all other non-Apple lightning cables previously in my hands have the same power consumption, as tested here.

Company Claims

ddHifi claims that the MFi09S offers a “noticeable sound quality improvement“. They fail to specify over what the improvement would be (maybe their own MFi06 cable?, but it appears obvious that it must be any other such cable.

Physical Theory

Noise and Timing

So what sonic improvement (over what?) can we expect in a digital cable? After all, it transports zeros and ones, right (which are transmitted as voltage fluctuations)? Actually, it carries data and power in two separate lines.

Principally, there is lots of “digital crap” coming out of a phone: jitter (timing errors) and noise. That’s because a phone is not a dedicated music player. I has no proper audio clock and lots of other functionalities that require different electrical components, which are cramped in a small case and affect the outgoing digital signal negatively, mainly by electromagnetic interference (EMI), radio frequency interference (RFI), and timing errors (jitter). In some cases, interference is caused by the client DAC, as demonstrated on the example of the EarMen Sparrow by Biodegraded. And noise can also be produced inside the cable (through poor insulation).

What’s in a Digital Cable?

Fact is, there is no difference in incoming vs. received data between expensive and budget cables, bits are bits, and the result is “bit perfect” in every case. So, no sonic difference, right? Stop, we have to examine what’s in a bit: jitter, timing, and noise. Jitter and timing can be measured (and corrected for by re-clocking), which leaves us with noise. It is a bit of an unlucky choice of words, I’d call it impurities superimposed on the digital signal which may (or not) degenerate the sound.

A metallic digital cable is principally a conductor that also transports pre-existing noise (it cannot distinguish between the good and bad things in the data stream) but it is also an “antenna” for near-ambient RFI/EMI, and it generates its own stray/spare magnetic and electrical fields (when carrying a constant current).

So what can go wrong during digital data transfer? When signal voltage is transported, the host and the cable may pick up stray signals in addition to the intended one…just like dirt being added to the bathwater. In addition, host, cable, and client can be on different “electrical” ground levels. Third, interferences during transport may generate time delays.

Timing errors need filtering by decrappifiers such as the ifi Nano iUSB 3.0 and re-clocking, typically not done in the phone host but in the DAC client at the other end of the digital cable. EMI can be minimized or avoided by the use of high-quality, well-shielded electronic components in the phone – and by a good digital cable.

In a well-designed cable, data line and power lines are separated and well shielded from each other (and from outside electromagnetic interference from, let’s say, power supplies), and it is twisted to minimize the contact areas between the two. Material also plays a role for data integrity: for example, in networks, fibre optic cables are not susceptible to EMI, copper is. EMI is important not only for the design of cables, but also for the electronics and the circuit board.

In summary, noise contamination happens in the source and/or during transport through the digital cable. The old rule “garbage in, garbage out” is also valid for digital data. If the data stream leaving the phone is compromised, the cable cannot fix it. All it can do is not let it further deteriorate. It cannot reclock or filter, and therefore not correct for the phone’s EMI/RFI and/or jitter.

Therefore, if the source emits a noisy signal, even the best cable makes no difference, but a bad cable further deteriorates the signal. If the host signal is clean, cables may make a difference. A dedicated music player may generate a cleaner data stream than a computer or a phone.

What Others say

The Audiophiliac Steve Guttenberg compared “fancy” optical and coaxial cables with generic, low-cost ones. He recorded substantial sonic differences between the expensive and the generic ones. Steve is a reputable analyst: was he dreaming and putting his good reputation at stake? In contrast, no test of Lighting cables has been conducted yet. Actually, I did test a few in my analysis of the ddHifi MFiS06…and found no obvious difference.

Self-acclaimed “objectivists” claim digital data don’t make a difference. This is based on measurements that do not reflect the quality of the data stream – and no physical connection between them and sound is established. And because the measurement setups are as arbitrary as the interpretation of the results, there is nothing objective about them. Nada. Zilch.

To add insult to injury, such protagonists typically don’t bother testing the gear with their ears they lecture the rest of us about. As we know already from earphones: graphs are insufficient for characterizing the sound of a device. And nothing is objective anyway.

Being opinionated is not being objective!

Whatever the theory tells us is one thing, listening is another. What’s important in the end is sound and not opinion. I have written all of the above before any listening test of the MFi09S cable.

Sonic Effects of Noise

I have experienced and described the effects of EMI and RFI (as well as switching noise, but not jitter) on the example of power supplies, for example the Burson Super Charger or the Allo Nirvana & Shanti and ifi Audio Power X. Contamination muddles the sound, it loses clarity and transparency. In the Burson case, I have no desire to go back to the stock power supply, the difference in the amp’s sonic performance was that huge.

Listening

We have learnt that the ddHifi MFi09S Lightning to USB-C cable is just one piece in the noise puzzle, sandwiched between a potentially noisy phone and a USB noise filter and a reclocker. That’s when the less imaginative audio linguist pulls out the phrase “your mileage will vary”. It is not a black and white affair. If the signal incoming from the phone is clean (just switch the Wifi and cell connection off), all a poor cable can do is deteriorate the signal, whereas a good cable has a high data integrity.

Round 1: iPhone SE (1st gen.) with different Lightning Cables

For my testing, I connected my iPhone SE (1st gen.) to the Questyle M15 DAC/amp with different lightning cables:

• ddHiFi MFi09S
• ddHiFi MFi06
• ifi Audio
• makeshift lightning cable 1: TC28i adapter with USB-C charging cable
• makeshift lightning cable 2: Apple camera adapter with USB cable

I then listened with the Moondrop Katos the Final E5000s. If there is a sonic difference between these cables, it is not obvious…and therefore negligible. In order to remove all doubt, I moved on to round 2.

Round 2: iPhone SE (1st gen.) vs. Hidizs AP80 Pro-X DAP

I listened with the Moondrop Kato’s to the following two setups:

• iPhone connected to the Questyle M15 via ddHiFi MFi09S cable
• Hidizs AP80 Pro-X DAP connected to the Questyle M15 via a generic UGREEN USB-C charging cable

Phone and DAP served as transports only – but both use different music softwares. The Hidizs setup sounds obviously better: richer, deeper, cleaner, with better dynamics and more headroom. I speculate the cleaner data stream and/or the different encoding from the dedicated (and therefore less noisy) player make the difference, but not the cable. The paradox is that a technically superior cable may not matter at all in many cases because of the other sound-influencing factors.

In the two test rounds, I toggled the phones cellular connection, Bluetooth, and Wifi on and off in all possible combinations, which also made no sonic difference.

Round 3: iPhone into Marantz SA8005 with different Lightning Cables

To put the lid on the pot, I played the iPhone through the Marantz SA8005 SACD player into the home stereo – and listened with the Sennheiser HD25 headphone with its integrated headphone amp. The MFi09S did not work at all, neither did the ifi Audio OTG cable – the iPhone was not recognized by the Marantz. Only the Apple Lightning cable, an MFI-certified Startech USB cable, and even a cheaper MFI-certified UGREEN charge cable worked. And no, there was no audible difference either.

Reasoning is the fact that the Marantz, like a Mac computer, requires a bi-directional power line (with charging functionality) to communicate with the phone. OTG cables generally do not offer that.

Interpretation

All cables tested “sound” the same. They appear to be reasonably well shielded against EMI/RFI and the metallic wire material used makes no sonic difference but rather other factors such as the source (software, noise) in the phone’s case.

In other words, the MFi09S is overkill for my applications. It may be as good as intended but cannot show its qualities in my setups. It would make a difference if the client DAC was emitting EMI/RFI, but this is a special case. The other fact to consider is that a DAP without network/general computing capabilities sounds better than a phone, even with a budget cable.

Although the MFi09S makes no sonic difference in my tests, it is still not snake oil!

Concluding Remarks

Whether a digital cable makes a sonic difference depends mainly on the data quality of the host. If my phone emits a noisy signal, even the best cable is wasted on it. On the other hand, even the cleanest signal can be contaminated by a poorly designed cable.

ddHiFi’s series of “audiphile” digital cables connects computers, daps, and phones to client DACs. Phones typically produce the noisiest data stream. The fact that I don’t hear a difference in sound quality between the MFi9S and other lightning cables may lie in the problematic phone source. An “audiophile cable” may simply be overkill for this job.

In summary, the lack of “obvious sonic improvement” as claimed by ddHiFi may not reflect on the cable – such a general claim is simply not tenable as such “improvement” (rather call it “lack of deterioration”) would depend on many other factors, too.

But just as with earphones cables, the MFi9S is a haptically substantial, well-handling, durable cable with quality connectors that also adds a visual “jewelry” effect to your OTG setup. Unless you are keen on the overpriced, white, easily fraying Apple equivalents…And there is still ddHiFi’s lower-priced MFi6 cable.

UPDATE 2023-01-03: I also tested the USB-C version of this cable, the ddHiFi TC09BC, and it does make a difference in my test setup. And there is a good explanation why…

Until next time…keep on listening!

Contact us!

Disclaimer

THE MFi09S cable weather supplied by the ddHiFi for my review upon my request – and I thank them for that. I also thank Alberto for his input to this article.

Get them it from the DD Official Store

Our generic standard disclaimer.

About my measurements.

You find an INDEX of our most relevant technical articles HERE.

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The article shows how to customize the sound of your iems by changing the frequency response – without equalization – and in a non-destructive way. That is, the modification is quickly reversible. The results of this earphone modding may vary but you will frequently enjoy an earphone more when modified than right out of the box.

Introduction: Why reversible Earphone modding?

Reversible earphone modding (“modifying”), mainly performed with micropore tape, aims to balance an earphone’s sound to better fit one’s personal tonal preferences. Those audioreviews.org authors who are also subscribing to the “Super Best Audio Friends” Forum, have always been keen on the technique.

In the following, I will summarize the basic principles and some simple tricks & tips in an easy cookbook style to assist you in getting the best out of your earphones. You then can dig deeper into some case studies provided.

Reversible meaning that, after modding, the iems can be easily brought back to their initial stage…no holes poked, nothig ripped off etc. That’s favourable if you want to sell them later…

Modding is required then some iems don’t sound right for some listeners out of the box. They may be too bright (“shouty”) or the may have too much/not enough bass. In some cases, a different cable of different eartips help, but our method is cheaper – and it can be applied on top of all others. It changes the frequency spectrum without equalization.

The idea of “reversible modding” was initiated and pioneered by SBAF/Head-Fier James444. We reproduced his wisdom with his permission on our blog, previously, whilst applying and refining it ourselves over time.

Typically, a sensitive listener wishes to reduce unwanted peaks in the upper midrange (2-4 kHz harshness and hardness area) and treble (e.g. 7-10 kHz sibilance area). And he/she also wants to attenuate an overly inflated bass, particularly slowly decaying mid-bass humps. In short, if the frequency response curve is a U or V with its lowest point in the lower midrange (let’s say at 1 kHz), this shape should open up towards a horizontal line in the eyes of an “audiophile”.

Dynamic-driver (DD) earphones, because of their comparatively simple design, are easier to modify than balanced armature (BA) multi-drivers or hybrids.

Our Success Stories

Our authors have tamed the upper midrange by micropore mod in the following iems – and included the process and results in their respective writeups (each of which gives you insights in the particular modding process) – but I recommend finishing this article first before dipping into the particulars:

• Blon A8 Prometheus
• Blon BL-05 MK1
• Brainwavz Delta
• ddHifi Janus2
• KBEAR Diamond
• KBEAR TRI3
• KBEAR KB04
• KZ EDX
• LETSHOUER S12
• Moondrop Kato
• Moondrop SSR
• Moondrop Starfield
• NF Audio NM2+
• NiceHCK M5
• NiceHKC NX7
• NiceHCK NX7 Pro
• Pioneer CH3
• Rose Technics QT-9 MK2S
• Shanling ME80
• Shozy Form 1.1
• Tin Hifi T2 Evo
• TRN BA8
• TRN VX
• Unique Melody 3DT
• Urbanfun YBF-ISS014

Materials needed

You will find most of these items in your household. The biggest hurdle may be finding 3M micropore tape. Have a look at your local drug mart or health supplies store (e.g try here if you live in Calgary).

1. 3M micropore tape (Johnson & Johnson micropore tape may be too thick; you can also try Transpore tape)
2. Electrical tape or Scotch tape (Tesa Film for Germans)
3. Alcohol swabs (only in rare cases; 2-ply because it is the thinnest)
4. Thin wire (create it from a twist tie)
5. Needle
6. Scissors

One IEM, two Vents: the physical Principles

Typically (but not always), an iem has two vents, one in the front and one in the back. Here the Tinaudio T2 as an example.

Head-Fier James444 explains the functionality of the vents (original Head-Fi post):

Front Vent: making it smaller increases bass. Explanation: the front-mod adds a tiny amount of front leakage which avoids over-pressurization in the ear canal and reduces bass quantity. Attenuation is a bit stronger in deep bass than in mid/upper bass, resulting in a bass-lighter, but slightly more mid-bassy signature. Because of the leakage, isolation is slightly reduced.

Back vent: adding air increases bass; decreasing back vent diameter makes bass roll off. Reducing the air flow through the rear vent by taping it reduces bass (cover up and poke). Explanation: the back-mod restricts airflow through the back vent, resulting mainly in mid/upper bass attenuation. Deep bass remains unchanged and strong. Due to partial blocking of the back vent, isolation is slightly increased.

Both vents: the combination of front and back-mod yields the largest amount of bass attenuation and results in a significantly more balanced signature than stock.

Reducing and increasing Upper Midrange/Treble

Attenuating Upper Midrange/Treble

Is your earphone shouty? This mod can affect the frequency range between 5 and 15 kHz, depending on earphone.

This is done by adding micropore tape onto the nozzle:

1. Cover 80-90% of the screen with a single strip of micropore tape or use two thinner strips and tape over in a cross-like manner. this should do the job in most of of cases.
2. If this does not work perfectly well, try this: cover the nozzle 100%, then take a needle and poke a hole in the middle and four by the edges.If this still does not do the job in rare cases…
3. You can also try covering ca. 80-90% with 2.5 mm square of 3M micropore tape. This resulted resulted in 2-3 dB decrease in the upper midrange of the TRN VX.

Downside: if nozzle is covered too much, micropore can slow down the bass and make it “boomy” and/or compromise dynamics and soundstage in some earphones.

Example on the right: 95% of screen taped over with 3M micropore tape removed an evil 6-7 kHz “sibilance” peak in a Knowledge Zenith ED3.

Increasing Upper Midrange/Treble

Since the human ear hears the whole frequency spectrum in context, you increase perceived upper midrange/treble by reducing bass. See below how this is done.

Reducing and increasing Bass

Attenuating Bass with Micropore Tape

This is a twofold process and involves a bit of juggling between the two. Measuring comes in handy for double checking the results.

1. Taping off the back vent. If bass is too weak now, poke a hole into the tape to dose bass quantity. As long the hole in the tape is smaller than the original vent opening, the bass will be removed.
2. Creating an air-vent (or aid duct) in the front between tip and nozzle: this easy process is described over there. If you prefer a quickie, follow these pictures…

The combination of back-mod and front mod yields the largest amount of bass attenuation and results in a significantly more balanced signature than stock. If there is no back vent, one can obviously only do the air ducting. And that’s how it goes:

Unfortunately, you will never be able to speed up the bass, that is making it less muddy…but, of course, the muddiness will appear less irritating with reduced bass quantity after modding.

Below an example of a successful mod.

Attenuating Bass with the “Gummiringerl” (=Elastics) Method

(German, Viennese slang: “Gummiringerl”…little rubber ring, elastic; name coined and method suggested by SBAF/Head-Fier James444). 

The air-vent mod can also be performed with rubber string/elastic/any other string: pull through between tip and nozzle, then cut the ends off. You can try string of varying thickness. The downside is lack of flexibility in fine tuning, but you don’t have to worry about channel balance and it probably lasts longer. And it is faster and easier.

Increasing Bass with Micropore Tape

Tape off front vent for maximum effect. If you would like to scale it down, poke a small hole. The bigger the hole, the lesser the bass. Measure channel balance after each step, or do it sonically using a sine wave (Online Tone Generator).

Example: The Tinaudio T2s’ bass can be maximized by taping the front vent over. The bass quantity can be scaled back by poking a hole into the tape.

How to add Bass Extension

That’s hit and miss and varies from earphone to earphone. The idea is to reduce the air flow in the back vent. It is a byproduct of reducing bass by reducing the size of the back vent by taping and poking as described above.

Modding Limitations – That awful 3 kHz Peak

3 kHz peaks may introduce unpleasant hardness and fatigue, but they effectively cannot be safely removed with a reversible mod. Some drivers may respond to micropore tape on the nozzle: it is therefore worth a try to either cover the nozzle grille with 80-90% of micropore tape or remove the screen with a needle, tape completely over with micropore tape and poke a hole near the edge…as described in the treble section.

Other published Mods

Successful mods of single dynamic-driver earphones performed and described by James444:

Alpex HSE-A2000 —  balancing reduction of bass and treble

JVC FD01 with DIY filters — dampening with swabs

JVC HA-FX850 — with great explanations of the physics

Pioneer CH3 — treble reduction only

Kopiokaya explains his mods of the following earphones in great detail:

TRN VX — shoutiness reduced

KBEAR Diamond — bass attenuated

Concluding Remarks

The methods I have summarized in this article may help you getting over your dissatisfaction with a recent purchase – by easy, inexpensive means. In the future, just read as many evaluations of an iem as possible to form the most complete picture.

And please, never – NEVER – fall for any YouTube hypsters/salesmen/influencers and order pricey iems on spec. They mostly want your money. We don’t.

Although this article is quite comprehensive, the relevant chapters can be easily selected and accessed from the “Table of Contents” above. All of these methods are easy and can be performed by people with two left hands. I am the best example of that.

Until next time…keep on listening!

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Disclaimer

I thank James444 and Kopiokaya for their insights and cooperation. James444’s wisdom is reproduced here with his permission.

Our generic standard disclaimer.

The post The Principles Of Reversible Earphone Modding – Removing Shoutiness and Bass Boom… appeared first on Music For The Masses.

Cons — The Gryphon can feel unwieldy when paired with large phones
– Not powerful enough to drive planars
– Slight hiss with extremely sensitive IEMs (without IEMatch)
– Not the best battery life when driving power-hungry cans
– High recharge times

INTRODUCTION

iFi Audio has been hard at work lately as they are continually refreshing their existing models whereas throwing in a new model or two to further flesh out their lineup.

The iFi xDSD Gryphon is their latest portable DAC-Amp and in terms of pricing it sits below the venerable micro iDSD Signature. In terms of features and use-case though, the Gryphon seem to be an evolved xCAN. Moreover, the circuitry has similarities with the desktop all-in-one iFi Neo iDSD (reviewed here).

So, the Gryphon appears to be a mish-mash of several past and present iFi products and seem to have taken the best bits from them, at least on paper. Let’s see if the real-world performance stacks up accordingly.

Note: the ratings given will be subjective to the price tier. iFi Audio was kind enough to send me the xDSD Gryphon as a loaner via WOD Audio.

Earphones/Headphones used: Dunu Zen, Earsonics ONYX, Campfire Audio Holocene, Sennheiser HD650, ZMF Atrium, Final Sonorous III.
Firmware versions: 1.45
Price, while reviewed: 600 euros. Can be bought from WOD Audio.

PHYSICAL THINGS AND USABILITY

PACKAGING AND ACCESSORIES

iFi Audio went for a minimalist package with the Gryphon. You get the essentials: a USB type-C to type-C cable (for connecting to phones), a USB type-C to lightning cable (for connecting with iPhones), and a type-C to USB type-A cable for charging. Alongside, you also get a felt carrying pouch.

BUILD QUALITY

Build quality of the xDSD Gryphon is excellent. The housing is sandblasted aluminum with a wavy pattern on top. The volume pot is also color-matched and has distinct “steps” when rotated.

There are two buttons on the right side of the volume pot (xBass II/xSpace switch, and input selector respectively) and two headphone outputs on the left side (4.4mm balanced and 3.5mm single-ended). The volume pot has good feedback when rotated but the press feedback is a bit mushy.

The bottom of the device is extremely busy. From the left, first up is the XBass II adjusting switch. You can tweak the sound of the bass boost or the stage expansion here. Then, there are two type-C ports, one for charging and another for connecting to external devices. Underneath the charging port is a charge indicator LED.

Next to that is the coaxial/optical input, which is rare to find in device of such class nowadays. Finally, there are the 4.4mm and 3.5mm analog input/line-output. It is a variable line-out, which means voltage needs to be adjusted via the volume pot. You can use the Gryphon as a standalone DAC and pre-amp if needed.

The volume pot also acts as a power button and has an LED on top to indicate a range of SPLs (Sound Pressure Level). Another LED on the side also shows the current sample rate and file format. The following image shows all the colors and their corresponding sample rate or format.

Engaging either xBass II or PowerMatch lights up the tiny white LEDs beside the button. At the bottom there is the IEMatch switch that can select between the single-ended or balanced output. Finally, at the top faceplate resides the SilentLine OLED display which can be used to modify settings and cycle between inputs etc.

Overall, excellent build quality with no noticeable room for improvement.

HANDLING

The xDSD Gryphon, at 215 g, is not too substantial in terms of weight. However, due to the 75mm width can be awkward to hold in hand. This becomes more noticeable when you’re stacking the DAC/Amp with a large phone (most modern phones are large anyway).

As a result, I preferred to use the Gryphon with my laptop in wired mode, and while on-the-go, I paired via Bluetooth with my phone. Fortunately, the aluminium chassis provides decent amount of grip, so stacking is possible.

BATTERY LIFE

Clocking at around 8hrs of playback time, the battery life on the Gryphon is decent if unremarkable. This figure goes down further if you drive high impedance dynamics or use it over BT for long periods.

The 3600mAh battery pack could have been increased for higher playback times, but then the device would become thicker. Recharging takes about 5 hours on a typical phone charger, which is extremely high. I wish iFi employed a fast charging circuit because this recharge time means you can’t just quickly top it off once the battery empties.

INTERNAL HARDWARE

iFi Audio are most comfortable with using the BurrBrown chipset and here it appears again on the xDSD Gryphon. This is the same DAC chip that appears in the flagship Pro iDSD Signature (albeit in a quad-DAC config). The BB DSD1793 chipset offers native DSD encoding and with the updated XMOS controller can now decode MQA files at a hardware level. This feature, admittedly, is of little use to non-TIdal HiFi users but it doesn’t hurt to have an extra feature.

The potentiometer is fully analog, thus not facing some of the limitations that digital potentiometers may have. However, being analog in nature, it may degrade over time. The switches used are all from ALPS, . The amp sections remains unchanged on paper, with quad JFET OV4627 op-amps (customized for iFi Audio). The amp circuit also uses a dual-mono design for the balanced output.

Other extras include the xBass feature which is an analog EQ and mostly aims to “fix” the sub-bass roll-off issue on open-back headphones. In reality, many open-back headphones suffer from distortion in those regions and applying an EQ might cause further distortion and clipping. The other feature is the iEMatch switch that adds additional resistance to the signal path for highly sensitive IEMs, blocking hiss in the process.

As for the xSpace, it adds a sense of space to the sound that doesn’t sound artificial or overdone. I found the implementation to be tasteful with IEMs especially so give that one a try. The BT5.1 is one of the highlights of the product and has LDAC support. iFi also uses a new proprietary PureWave topology where they go for a dual-mono setup with shorter signal paths than their previous designs.

Speaking of power outputs, the xDSD Gryphon outputs 1W @ 32ohms from the balanced out and 320mW @ 32ohms from the single-ended output (which also supports their proprietary S-balanced tech). The voltage swing can go as high as 6.7Vrms from the balanced out (with a 600ohm load) and this comes handy when driving high impedance dynamic driver headphones. Output impedance is lower than 1ohm on both (with IEMatch turned off).

The internal components are all high quality as expected. TDK/Murata/Panasonic/Kemet caps, and FET-based switching to mute those annoying “pops” you encounter on some DAC/Amps. The PCB design is excellent and the components are high quality so I have no qualms about the internals of the Gryphon.

XDSD GRYPHON TONALITY AND TECHNICALITIES

The general sound of the iFi xDSD Gryphon can be summarized as warm-neutral. It has the characteristic iFi Audio warmth with smooth treble and an engaging, transparent midrange. The bass is mostly neutral but can be pushed higher with the xBass switch. Depending on the xBass mode, the bass can sound atmospheric (with slight bloom and reverb) or mostly focus on increasing punch and slam.

Staging and imaging is excellent on the xDSD Gryphon. No, they won’t rival their desk counterparts, but given the portability it is better than most DAPs in this range. Treble also doesn’t exhibit the rather common “glare” you find in many dongles these days. There is a sense of naturalness to the signature that can be addicting. Despite this slight laid-back delivery, the Gryphon is very resolving, bringing out subtle nuances from tracks and doing justice to flagship IEMs with their detail retrieval capacity.

One thing to note is that changing the firmware can bring subtle changes to the sound due to changes in reconstruction filter. I used both the GTO and non-GTO firmwares. The latter had a more laid-back treble and had a slightly wider stage, while the former had slightly more up-front mids and more macrodynamic punch. Biggest difference happens with MQA files on the GTO firmware, so if you are using Tidal, this is the recommended one.

Overall transparency and resolution was very good, with no noticeable roll-off in the upper-treble frequencies. Separation was very good as well, though the likes of Chord Mojo2 does that better. The background hiss with sensitive IEMs is also not distracting, as once the music starts playing you don’t even notice it. Moreover, there is IEMatch to take care of hiss, though that tends to modify the frequency response of some multi-BA IEMs so keep that in mind.

PAIRING NOTES

Sennheiser HD650

The Sennheiser HD650 is one of the few headphones that scale according to the source quality. On paper, the xDSD Gryphon has the required voltage swing to power it, and it does sound good. The HD650 got loud from the balanced out and had some of the dynamics it can display on a more powerful amp. Separation was good as well.

However, you still don’t quite get the “magic” that happens when you connect the HD650 to OTL amps like Feliks Euforia. Granted, that thing is a behemoth and costs over 3 grands. For the size and price, I think the Gryphon did a good job with the HD650, but those headphones can scale higher.

Final Sonorous III

Final Sonorous III is a closed back pair of headphones and are very efficient. Despite the efficiency they are quite transparent to source quality. The Gryphon drove them excellently with no loss in dynamics and the bass was quite pleasant. The mids were transparent, with no evident peaks in the upper mids that tends to creep up on some sources.

I would call the xDSD Gryphon an excellent pairing for efficient dynamic driver headphones.

ZMF Atrium

The ZMF Atrium is a similarly high impedance dynamic driver as the HD650. Their pairing with the Gryphon was surprisingly good. I got great separation, the bass was not loose and had good amount of punch, and the staging was excellent.

The Atrium can scale much higher (with the aforementioned Feliks Euforia for example) but for portable use, the Gryphon are absolutely adequate. Just make sure you use the balanced out.

Hifiman HE-6se V2

On the planar magnetic side, we have the Hifiman HE-6se V2. With 82dB @ 50 ohms efficiency, these are one of the hardest to drive headphones in the entire planet. The Gryphon failed to get them loud enough to be enjoyable, even from the balanced output. These headphones are notorious for bringing amps to their knees and sadly xDSD Gryphon isn’t designed for such workloads.

Dunu Zen and Dunu Zen Pro

The Dunu Zen and Zen Pro both exhibited slight hiss from the balanced out of the xDSD Gryphon. However, the overall sound was quite pleasant. The pairing was very resolving without being “on-your-face”. I especially liked how the Gryphon took some edge off of the OG Zen, which can be a bit peaky near the upper-mids.

In general, the xDSD Gryphon pairs really well with most if not all IEMs. The warm-neutral yet transparent signature complements somewhat analytical headphones and even works well with warmer sounding gear. On the other hand, I would not recommend it for power-hungry planar magnetic headphones, or very high impedance dynamic driver headphones due to the relatively lower voltage swing.

SELECT COMPARISONS

vs iFi micro iDSD Signature

The micro iDSD Signature (reviewed here by Alberto) is priced slightly higher than the xDSD Gryphon, but has a much more powerful amp section and a Dual-DAC implementation.

In terms of physical appearance and handling, the iDSD Signature is noticeably larger and heavier. It’s also more of a transportable DAC-Amp than a portable one. The xBass implementation on the Gryphon is better and offers more fine-tuning. The display is also handy.

Meanwhile, the micro iDSD can replace some desktop amps with the incredible 4W @ 16ohms output. This one is meant to drive full-size cans and apart from the likes of Hifiman HE-6se V2 and Abyss 1266TC, it can drive most headphones including some planars.

On the other hand, the Gryphon offers more flexible connectivity and pairs better with IEMs, which are easily over-driven by the micro iDSD Signature. Background hiss was also comparatively lower on the xDSD Gryphon. Soundwise, the micro iDSD Signature goes for a meatier, denser presentation, whereas Gryphon has better clarity and somewhat laid-back signature.

In short: if your primary use-case is IEMs, then go for the Gryphon. It’s more portable, easier to pair with phones, and there is lower chance of over-driving the earphones. For headphone usage the micro iDSD will be a better fit.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

The iFi xDSD Gryphon offers a lot of bells and whistles, and in a sense is more versatile than their desktop DAC-Amp, the Neo iDSD. iFi managed to miniaturize the circuitry in a pocket form, while offering the same output power. That’s remarkable indeed. I wish the Gryphon offered a fixed-voltage line-out but that’s a minor nitpick.

The biggest gripe, for me, would be the slow recharge time. For such a moderate-capacity battery I expected lower recharge time. I had to charge the Gryphon every 3 days during review, and if I forgot to charge it overnight then I couldn’t take it out during commute. Bummer.

Nonetheless, those looking for a battery-powered DAC/Amp for all-purpose use via BT or USB, the xDSD Gryphon is pretty much one of the best under $1000. You do not get absolute output power for headphones, but you get excellent transparency in the sound and fantastic pairing with IEMs irrespective of tuning of driver config. Recommended.

MY VERDICT

4.5/5

One of the best portable DAC-Amps in its price-class for powering IEMs and moderately efficient headphones.

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DISCLAIMER

Get it from WOD Audio.

Our generic standard disclaimer.

PHOTOGRAPHY

You find an INDEX of our most relevant technical articles HERE.

The post iFi Audio xDSD Gryphon Review (1) – Swiss Army Knife appeared first on Music For The Masses.

Cons — Rose-gold accents on the Hidizs MM2 cable might be a turn off
– Lower-midrange recession
– Upper-midrange sounds strained on treble and neutral filters
– Steep treble roll-off post 7kHz.
– Needs to be priced lower to be competitive

INTRODUCTION

Before proceeding with the review, I should clarity that this review is an extension of Jürgen’s take on the Hidizs MM2. As such, I’ll just breeze through the usual build quality/packaging sections and go straight for the sound analysis.

Hidizs’s latest IEM release are the MM2 and they feature a hybrid setup with 10.2mm dynamic driver for bass and mids + 6mm magnetostatic driver for the treble. This combo is often seen on more budget-tier IEMs so Hidizs need to differentiate their product somehow. Turns out, they opted for a tuning system based on removable screws on the back of the IEMs.

Let’s see if the tuning system alone is enough to make the Hidizs Mermaid MM2 an worthy contender in the <USD $100 IEMs space.

Note: the ratings given will be subjective to the price tier. Hidizs sent the MM2 for evaluation.

Sources used: Lotoo PAW 6000, Sony NW-A55
Price, while reviewed: $80. Can be bought from Hidizs’ Official Website.

PHYSICAL THINGS AND USABILITY

ACCESSORIES

Both the stock cable and the carrying case deserve a mention here, since they are some of the best you can find in the packaging of IEMs under USD $100. The stock cable is supple, doesn’t tangle easily, and looks great. The carrying case is somewhat over-engineered yet maintains a muted outlook. Rather unexpected for a pair of budget IEMs.

BUILD QUALITY, FIT, COMFORT

I agree with Jürgen regarding the build quality, fit, and comfort. His review also went through the mechanism of the tuning filters (which are rear-mounted instead of being front-mounted) so check that one out for further details.

I should note that I prefer the rear-mounted filter system as opposed to nozzle or tip mounted ones since they are more cumbersome to swap. Also it’s need stating that the passive noise isolation is below average, as the rear-vents allow noise inside. No driver-flex was noticed which is a plus.

HIDIZS MERMAID MM2 TONALITY AND TECHNICALITIES

The general sound signature of the MM2 can be described as variations of “V-shaped” tuning with varying degrees of bass and lower-treble depending upon the choice of rear-filter.

I think the bass response is the star of the show here with punchy mid-bass and good amount of rumble in the sub-bass region. The slam is also above-average so these drivers are moving good amount of air.

The issue arises in the lower-mids region where, with the stock and bass filter mids sound too recessed, resulting in distant male vocals, snare hits etc. The aggressive pinna gain around 2.5kHz compounds this further with high-pitched or soaring vocals sounding strained, as can be heard on Alexisonfire’s This Could Be Anywhere in the World. The male vocals do gain a bit of thickness with the bass filter but then again the large amount of mid-bass drowns out the subtle articulations of voice, resulting in a lack of resolution.

Treble peaks around 4kHz and then goes for a steep decline from 7kHz onward. This robs off the airiness of cymbals and hi-hats, resulting in a muted presentation devoid of shimmer and resonances. The magnetostatic driver is supposedly aiding the treble response and whereas some magnetostatic timbre can be heard, the sheer extension is lacking. Treble overall is not bad, it is just unremarkable.

What is remarkable though is the staging performance of the Hidizs MM2. Stage is wide, with instruments often being placed outside your ears in binaural tracks, e.g. Amber Rubarth’s Strive. Stage depth also seems above-average though that is mostly attributable to the lower-mids recession. Imaging was above-average though lacked the precision of some of their peers. Instrument separation is above average but is often let down by the overshadowing bass.

Jürgen mentioned the timbre to be somewhat plasticky and unnatural. I wouldn’t call the timbre plasticky myself but it definitely lacks some of the richness one would expect from a natural-sounding setup.

SELECT COMPARISONS

vs Dunu Titan S

Dunu’s budget model of the refreshed Titan series have 11mm dynamic drivers with LCP diaphragm. Dunu went for a more neutral-bright tuning with the Titan S and the driver is also faster than the MM2 during transients. Due to the upper-mid and treble focus, the bass on the Titan S doesn’t have as much authority as the MM2 bass.

One area where the Titan S surpasses the MM2 is sheer resolution, with the Titan S being more revealing of mastering flaws and also having better imaging. Staging is not as wide and tall as the MM2, however, neither is the macrodynamic punch as evident.

Given the similar price, the Titan S offer great value for those who are after a neutral-ish pair of IEMs. The Hidizs MM2 will cater more to those who prefer a mainstream or V-shaped tuning, or those who find the Titan S to be overly bright.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

The IEM market is the most ruthless in the under USD $100 segment as new models pop up almost daily. Hidizs MM2 stand out with great accessories and a filter-system that is quite unique, while offering various levels of bass.

Unfortunately, the mids and treble frequencies are somewhat off in terms of tuning and that mars the experience. The treble roll-off hurts the sense of resolution the most, something one would expect from IEMs at this range.

I do think the Hidizs MM2 would offer better value had they been priced somewhat lower, and just like Jürgen I’d also assume $20 -30 lower retail price based on sound alone. The accessories are quality however, so maybe you are paying the extra for those goodies.

MY VERDICT

3.25/5

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DISCLAIMER

Get it from Hidizs Store

Our generic standard disclaimer.

The post Hidizs MM2 Review (2) – Yet Another Budget Contender appeared first on Music For The Masses.

Cons — Lean and somewhat bright in the vocals department; top-end transients a bit fast.

Executive Summary

The LETSHUOER S12 is a well executed planar magnetic iem with all the traits adherent to this technology (low distortion, tight bass response, easy to drive, better sense of imaging, deeper stage, great bass extension).

Introduction

Planar magnetic headphones are popular because of their characteristic sound, but they have been traditionally overpriced and underperforming. They have therefore largely enjoyed a life in the shade.

That until a YouTuber started a hype putting the $220 7Hz Timeless ahead of its $1000 siblings, which attracted the attention of bargain hunters. Whilst this was a bit of a deception (the “other” $200 competition was not mentioned), it started a vivid and fruitful discussion all over the forums.

LETSHUOER (formerly known as Shuoer), a company from Shenzhen, China, jumped quickly on that bandwagon and released their S12 at $50-70 lower than the Timeless. They are mainly an OEM manufacturer who came on the scene with their ambitious $850 EJ07 that received a rather lukewarm reception by analysts (it was updated to the much improved EJ07M, which I am currently analyzing). LETSHUOER also did not impress with their budget fare such as the Shuoer Tape.

To take it away, the LETSHUOER S12 is a very good iem and a keeper for me. But can it prevail against the pricier 7Hz Timeless? You may be surprised…

Planar Magnetic Drivers – What do We expect?

The main purpose of a planar magnetic driver was to optimize bass response. In the earlier days, planar magnetic headphones reached down to 20 Hz whereas dynamic drivers only to 50 Hz. On the other hand, a dynamic driver has more punch and slam.

This has changed as slam in the planar magnetics has improved. Further advantages of planar magnetic drivers are: low distortion, tight bass response, easy to drive, better sense of imaging, deeper stage, and great bass extension.

LETSHUOER S12 Specifications

Physical Things and Usability

In the box are the earpieces, a silver-plated monocrystalline copper cable, 2 sets of LETSHUOER’s standard eartips (S/M/L), a container with foams, a much too small carrying case, and the usual paperwork.

The earpieces are of CNC machined aluminium, their build is rock solid. And they are relatively small, a characteristic also of the EJ07M. Small usually means comfortable, and that’s certainly the case here. Fit is also good for me – much better than the 7Hz Timeless with their larger “footprint”. The translucent stock eartips work well for me, but the seal is average for me (but also better than the Timeless).

The cable is somewhat unusual as it has a rather thick PVC coating, reminiscent of my mum’s clothlines. Well, it is not quite as thick but has a comparable tension/stiffness – and that without being heavy. It is funky to me, I quite like it. And it shows minimal microphonics when wiggled. The storage case is small so that I have not yet tried to squeeze the assembly into it.

In summary, the overall haptic is great and everything works right out of the box.

Sonic Characterization of the 7Hz Timeless

Equipment used: MacBook Air, Khadas Tone2 Pro/4.4 mm BAL & 3.5 mm SE or Earstudio HUD 100/high gain + JitterBug FMJ + ifi Audio iPower X; 4.4 mm stock cable with or without Cayin 4.4 mm to 3.5 mm adapter; Shuoer S12 stock eartips (translucent ones…the loaner came without eartips).

The 7Hz Timeless has been discussed in all details by the usual protagonists, including our own. Find the reviews of Alberto here and Durwood there, and Kazi’s elsewhere. And I have the Timeless on private loan while writing this.

The big schtick in the discussion, as mentioned before, is that planar magnetic iems have been underperforming and overpriced in the past and the 7Hz Timeless constitutes a much better value. At $220, a sweet spot for many, it has to prevail against an army of other models crammed in there. And, to give it away, I think the price is adequate but not sensationally low.

The 7Hz Timeless is all about bass. While it still lacks slam for many (a feature of planar magnetics) there is much bass. The extension is great, but mid-bass can be a bit much for me. It is soft, fuzzy, and occasionally boomy, and pounds mercilessly against my eardrums. I find this overwhelming and tiresome, but that’s subjective. Many may actually like that. For my personal taste, the midbass lacks composure, tightness, and spice.

Replacing the Shuoer S12’s stock ears tips with the JVC Spiral Dots took mitigated the “problem” to some extent, but did not entirely eliminate it.

Mid-bass appears to be up front on the soundstage in some tracks and covers up the whole image like a curtain, which makes for a shallow stage. And it provides for a very abrupt transition into the lower midrange up to bright, female voices. The lower midrange is naturally rather lean (another feature of planar magnetics) and vocals can be partially masked by the bass. Because of the lean and bright nature of the midrange, there can be shoutiness in some tracks.

But even in bass-less tracks vocals lack body and richness although they are articulate, very well sculptured, and natural. There is some brightness in female vocals, but they are “more lean than bright”. There is very good midrange clarity. All of these appear to be the result of the planar magnetic driver’s low distortion.

Treble is another mixed bag. Extension is great, treble resolution is good, upper transients are fast to oversharpened (“tizziness”), there is good air but also the occasional metallic sheen to it.

Technicalities are great. Timbre is ok, resolution and separation are good. Please check the big body of reviews for further details.

LETSHUOER S12 Tonality and Technicalities

Equipment used: Questyle QP1R on med. gain, Sony NW-A55; MacBook Air with Apogee Groove, AudioQuest DragonFly Cobalt, Khadas Tone2 Pro/4.4 mm BAL & 3.5 mm SE or Earstudio HUD 100/high gain + JitterBug FMJ + ifi Audio iPower X; stock cable or CEMA 6N OCC + OCC silver-plated 2.5 mm balance cable with or without the ddHiFi DJ44A adapter; stock eartips (translucent ones).

The LETSHUOER S12 carries most of the characteristics expected from a planar magnetic driver: low distortion resoling in good clarity, tight bass, deep bass extension, easy to drive, good staging…but, but but…

The S12’s bass is tight while digging deep. Midbass is well composed and focused, notes are not as rounded and soft (as in the Timeless), there is a crisp attack…and that’s the biggest different to the Timeless. A smaller but better focused kick.

This may have a few reasons, for example, the different housing shapes and the Timeless’ bigger contact area inside the concha (“bigger in-ear resonance”) and also the S12’s relatively higher frequency response above 2 kHz (which itself may be related to the housings).

The S12’s better mid-bass composure may trigger a chain effect in that the midrange is not masked and therefore clearer. Its transition from bass to lower midrange is much smoother compared the abrupt change in the Timeless…which results in a much more cohesive, balanced sound…which is the dealmaker/breaker for me.

Female voice remain articulate and lean, but are more forward and intimate, and a tad brighter, livelier, and spicier than in the Timeless. Vocals have a perceived higher energy in the S12, which plays them softer and therefore with lesser note definition. They are more prone to sibilance and shoutiness with unfavourable sources in the S12, but this has not been a problem for me.

Treble is also a mixed bad with the S12. Whilst extension and resolution are great, the transients are a bit fast up there and occasionally also yield that metallic sheen (“tizziness”) as in the Timeless.

As to technicalities. Staging is rather average, but tall, and reasonably deep (much deeper than in the Timeless). I find the staging adequate. Timbre is ok but benefits from a warm source such as the DragonFly Cobalt or Apogee Groove. Separation and instrument placement are ok. Resolution is absolutely superb and dwarves the Timeless’.

The Timeless, overall, sound a bit darker and less dynamic, more laid back but less composed than the more forward S12, which runs more into danger of being shouty. S12’s attack is crisper, Timeless have the softer transients. Note weight in the midrange is about even and could be better in both models.

When compared to a photo, the Timeless is more blurred and the S12 is sharper…but some may find the S12 overpixelated.

In summary, the S12 has the better composed bass, crisper attack, deeper stage, and better resolution than the Timeless. Everything is tighter in the S2. Compared to a car’s suspension, the Timeless is a comfortable SUV and the S12 is a sporty BMW.

In the end, it comes down to personal taste: pick your poison!

LETSHUOER S12 Driver = 7Hz Timeless Driver?

There are voices that speculate that both models have the same planar magnetic driver. After all, both models graph identically up to 2 kHz, and the differences above are just minor variations, possibly caused by the different housings. And some of the sonically perceived differences can be the product of the interactions between housings and our conchas.

We have also insider information that points to this as well as indirect evidence from upper harmonics measurements. Apparently, this OEM driver has been catching dust on the market for quite some time.

LETSHUOER, upon my request, are evasive and dwell on numbers: the Timeless has a 14.2 mm, the S12 a 14.8 mm driver – so they are different. Or one is a variation of the other? Stop, it all depends how (accurately) you measure them (e.g. front, back…).

The question is why nobody wants to admit to it? The answer is easy: to keep peaceful coexistence of companies as one could sue the other for “copycatting”. This could be a huge issue if one company’s model costs $$ and the competitor’s model (with the same driver) costs $$$$. Examples exist but are not widely publicized to protect the lucrative “kilobuck” markets.

So, unless somebody has cracked both models open, the driver question will be shrouded in mystery. At least for you :).

More LETSHUOER S12 Comparisons

We are in for some surprises. The S12 killed my beloved Final E5000 with my Questyle QP1R reference dap in these aspects: staging, transparency, really good transients, and upper extension. I hope I just had a bad morning when testing these two. The Final has a narrower stage lesser upper extension, less clarity…but more bass quantity.

The KBEAR TRI I3 Pro Pro is less cohesive than the S12 with a narrower stage, lesser resolution, and less midrange clarity. The I3 Pro is less balanced. Resolution is much better in the S12, which also has the crisper attack with more pizazz.

The Moondrop KATO offers a narrower stage because of early treble rolloff. It is slimmer in the bass and the upper midrange but still comes across as not less shouty. It also lacks richness in the lower midrange, a full orchestra’s crescendo comes across as somewhat lean in comparison. The S12 excels in resolution. It is much more bass dominated without overbearing midbass. Higher notes in horn sections as not as incisive as in the Kato, which is a bit scratchy in the upper mids in comparison.

The $600 LETSHUOER EJ07M shows better carved out vocals, is less bassy, has a narrower and deeper soundstage, better dynamics, and better resolution. Its presentation is lean(er) but never on the analytical side.

Concluding Remarks

I absolutely love the LETSHUOER S12. It is reasonably priced and I have yet to find a competitor in this price category that sounds as good. I also prefer the LETSHUOER S12 over the Timeless for five main reasons: better fit, tighter bass, deeper stage, better resolution, and a lower price.

LETSHUOER, ey! Never judge a book by its covers.

Until next time…keep on listening!

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All Our 302 Earphone and Earbud Reviews (with Links)

Disclaimer

The LETSHUOER S12 was sent to me unsolicited by the company. The 7Hz Timeless wass on private loan from Super Best Audio Friend Rockwell. A huge thanks to both. At the time of publication, this S12 specimen was on a “West of Centre” Canadian tour to Rockwell and co-blogger Biodegraded. You may find their impressions over at SBAF.

Get the Shuoer S12 from letsshuoer.net

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The post LETSHUOER S12 Review – Compared to 7Hz Timeless appeared first on Music For The Masses.

Cons — Outdated Bluetooth 4.1; short battery life; no onboard storage for key files, no (more) radio; no case.

Executive Summary

The Hidizs AP80 Pro-X is a versatile and enjoyable dap with a proven SoC sound that probably offers excellent value at its $180 price tag.

Introduction

Hidizs is an up and coming company out of China that recently scored hits with their S9, S3 Pro and particularly their S9 Pro dongle DAC/amps. The latter is one of the most popular dongles in the overcrowded $100-150 class. My review made it into the upper third of our Top 20 most read reviews of 2021. Hidizs also focus on portable music players, bluetooth receivers, and earphones, such as the MS1 Rainbow. The AP80 Pro-X is their latest DAP.

Specifications

The ouput impedance is < 1 ohm…

Differences between Hidizs AP80 Pro and Pro-X

Compared with AP80 PRO using the final unfold (4X) of an MQA file, AP80 PRO X will use MQA technology for the final unfold (8X) of an MQA file.

The AP80 Pro-X is the update of the AP80 Pro. The main tech difference between the two is the chipset. The AP80 deploys two ESS ES9218P SoCs (introduced in late 2016; “System on Chip”), and the AP80 Pro-X features two ESS ES9219C SoCs (introduced in late 2019).

Both all-in-one DAC/amp chips have effectively the same specs, but the ES2919C features hardware-level MQA decoding and it has a lower battery consumption at standby/no load.

This results in essentially the same performance specifications between AP80 Pro and AP80 Pro-X with channel separation as apparent exemption. Hidizs lists a much improved channel separation for the AP80 Pro-X model. Upon further inspection, the AP80 Pro-X’s better value stems from a measurement at no load, whereas the AP80 Pro’s number was generated under load.

And since channel separation decreases with load, these two numbers cannot be compared. But even the AP80 Pro’s “worse number” is still very good. I speculate both models’ channel separation are identical.

Functional difference is a lack of radio and protective case, and a different shape in the AP80 Pro-X (the AP80 Pro’s case does not fit).

Not changed between models have operating system, buttons/potentiometer, and Samsung touchscreen.

In summary, although I have not auditioned the AP80 Pro, I do not expect any (significant) sonic differences between the two. In fact, there should not be any major difference between any model using these SoCs, as the engineer cannot manipulate the software (in contrast to a dedicated DAC chip). In other words, the sound is entirely made by ESS and not by Hidizs or whoever put their name on the dap.

Design, Build quality

Physical Things and Usability

IN THE BOX…

• Type-C cable
• Type-C to Type-C OTG cable
• User manual
• 2 Screen protectors
• Warranty card

The design is an aluminum chassis sandwiched between two sheets of glass. Not sure whether I did it right, but I used one of the screen protectors in the front, and the other in the back :). The square shape is a bit odd to get used to, and the small size is traded for battery size.

The Samsung screen is responsive and of good resolution. The buttons are precise and the Japanese ALPS potentiometer is suspended. The overall build is very good. The AP80 Pro-X does not come with a protective shell, and there is currently no after-market one available.

Functionality and Operation

What it does

• plays music through single-ended and balanced headphone circuits
• works as wired DAC with computer and cellphones
• features bi-directional Bluetooth 4.1
• offers unique sound adjustments through “MSEB”
• accepts micro SD card up to 512 mB
• updates its music library blistering fast
• lets you read ebooks
• counts your footsteps (pedometer)

What it does not

• play single-ended and balanced circuits simultaneously
• does not feature the latest Bluetooth standard
• have radio function anymore (lost with chip upgrade from AP80 Pro model)
• has no accessible onboard storage for key files
• have the greatest battery life between charges
• no case available (at the time of writing)

Handling, Software, operating system/user interface, sound settings, connection options and modes, internals, pairing/Bluetooth, updating the library…fast or slow…

Hidizs AP80 Pro-X Quickguide

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HiBy 3.0 OS

HiBy is a company that produces their own daps, but they started out as software designers. Their OS 3.0 is therefore a mature product that I learnt intuitively and quickly by trial and error. No manual needed.

Compared to other OS, the HIBy has a few special features, such as pedometer and ebook reader. Two-directional Bluetooth may be more common. It can also be used as DAC with your computer or phone/tablet.

Unique to HiBy OS is the MSEB, which stands for “Mage Sound 8-ball”. It is a parametric, very intuitive EQ. The OS also includes a standard EQ. Other remarkable features of the HiBy OS are low/high gain selection, crossfade, and antialiasing in the play settings.

Amplification and Battery Consumption

Hidizs states 6-8 hrs playtime balanced and 8-11 h single ended, with a 40-day standby. That’s not great considering the iPod Classic’s 36 h playtime and is a function of the AP80 Pro-X’s small form factor (which does not leave space for a larger battery). But you are compensated with a fast 1h recharging.

Most of my power-hungry headphones are single-ended and the AP80 Pro-X had plenty of juice left with the 150 ohm Sennheiser HD 25. The single-ended output also handles the demanding planar-magnetic KBEAR TRI3 Pro with ease so that the more powerful balanced circuit probably plays any iem you throw at it.

DAC Use with Computer

Using the AP80 Pro-X as a “dongle DAC” with my MacBook Air worked very well, too. Particularly, the balanced circuit provides lots of power. When connected, the AP80 Pro-X’s battery is charging during use. Sound quality wise, it corresponds to a $120-150 dongle such as the Hidizs S9 Pro (I actually prefer the AP80 Pro-X’s sound). I was pleasantly surprised overall.

As dac compared to Cobalt: Cobalt sounds more natural with more depth/more 3D….and bassier WITH BETTER SEPARATION…and dynamics…HIDIZS SOUNDS FLATTER, less separation…much less depth…much less 3D..not even with bigger headroom…but AP80 is more powerful…

Sound

Equipment used: Sennheiser HD 25, KBEAR TRI3 Pro, Final E3000, IKKO OH10.

The AP80 Pro-X has its sound dictated by its prefabricated SoC. It will sound very similar to other devices using the same all-in-one chip. The presentation is neutral without being analytical or edgy. Nothing is boosted, which results in great midrange clarity. Staging is wide with good depth resulting in a decent headroom even with the single-ended circuit. Dynamics is great, the image is vivid. It also has good intimacy.

The single-ended output is good, but the balanced circuit is the star providing superb clarity and headroom…and a truly impressive listening experience. The clarity is adherent to the lack of USB noise in a dap – compared to a phone full of non-audio components. I find the overall sound better than that of my iPhone SE (1st gen.) with the Hidizs S9 Pro dongle.

Amazing what you get for $180 compared to iems at this price.

Hidizs recommends headphones/earphones between 8 and 200 ohm to be used with the AP80 Pro-X. It harmonizes perfectly well with the 150 ohm Sennheiser HD 25 (single ended circuit, high gain) doing justice to the headphone’s punchiness and dynamics. Lots of headroom.

Stepping over the upper limit with the 300 ohm Sennheiser HD 600, the headphone lost is smoothness and richness and became edgy sounding, while still playing loud enough.

Hidizs AP80 Pro-X Compared

Two candidates for comparison are the $109 Shanling M0 and the $220 Sony NW-A55.

The Shanling M0 features the same SoC as the original Hidizs AP80 Pro and sounds very similar to the “single-ended” AP80 Pro-X, too (I don’t have MQA). The Pro-X has bigger staging and more intimacy. But its balanced circuit with its much bigger headroom and dynamics removed any doubt and puts the Shanling to shame.

The Sony NW-A55 only features a single-ended circuit and sounds somewhat smoother and richer in the midrange, in comparison to the more brittle AP Pro-X. And it has a far superior battery life of >>20h owing to its larger size/bigger battery. The Sony can also be customized with Mr. Walkman firmware tailor the sound to the user’s particular taste.

Concluding Remarks

The Hidizs AP80 Pro-X is a versatile and competent dap with proven technology that provides me with lots of pleasure. Particularly its balanced circuit is impressive. As a DAC, it probably beats most budget dongles imo – including the Hidizs S9 Pro. The AP 80 Pro-X sits well in its price category – you probably cannot do better below $200 – which is a sweet spot for many.

Until next time…keep on listening!

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Disclaimer

The Hidizs AP80 Pro-X was provided unsolicited by Hidizs. You can buy it here: Hidizs.net. This is not an affiliate link.

Coupon Codes
AUDIOREVIEWS5 5% off for AP80/AP80 Pro//AP80 Pro-X/(DH80s/80)/MS2/MS4/S9 Pro/MS1/H2 and bundles
AUDIOREVIEWS3 3% off for S8/MS1 rainbow/Seeds/H1/BT01

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Gallery

The post Hidizs AP80 Pro-X Review (1) – Back In the ESS R appeared first on Music For The Masses.

Summary

These two single-chip dongles (Bolt: ESS9281 Pro, UA1: ESS9218 Pro) are superficially similar but quite different sounding. The Bolt can be summarized as clean and midrange-focused, the UA1 as bass- and upper-mid-emphasized (more “Harman”). Which is preferred will depend on the transducers they’re paired with as well as the tastes (and budget) of the listener.

For this comparison I listened with JVC HA-FDX1 single DD & Ultimate Ears UE900S quad BA earphones to 16/44.1 FLAC files played via USB Audio Player Pro from a Nokia 4.2 Android phone. The Bolt is currently $110, the UA1 $45. For details on physical things, specs, etc., see Jürgen’s individual reviews here and here.

Helm Bolt

In summary, the Bolt’s tonal/timbral package is warm in the bass and more clean & precise in the upper mids & treble. With some material, these contrasting characters make it seem a bit disconnected top to bottom. While having good weight in the bass, bass & sub-bass can come across as a bit boomy, un-defined (one-note) & soft, particularly with the source-picky JVC HA-FDX1. 

With the UE900S, though, the tendency for softness in the bass goes away and the rounder character benefits the otherwise lean BA bass notes. Treble is extended but not overemphasized; ‘sweet’ would be the old-school audiophool term. The clean nature of the mids and highs gives a very good sense of instrument separation and imaging. 

Overall I found the Bolt to be very good with UE900S – they sound ‘cleaner’ than from other SE dongles I’ve tried them with and the tonal balance benefits their lean-in-the-bass, low-in-the-upper mids, tizzy-up-top character.

Shanling UA1

First impression of the UA1 is of good top-to-bottom integration and good resolution, with dynamics that are more consistent in character across the range. The top end is well defined but well controlled, not splashy. There’s good bass: with HA-FDX1, sub-bass definition & extension are certainly there, both better than with the Bolt.

However, the UA1’s upper mids are a bit nasal/honky/shouty, particularly with the FDX1s which are a bit elevated there. With those ‘phones the UA1 is more balanced at the extremes than the Helm, but a bit tonally and timbrally off in the mids.

With the UE900S, the bass remains good but the upper mids & treble come off as overexaggerated, sibilant and a bit hashy compared to the Bolt. Cable games might help this, but I’m not optimistic.

Matching

Comparing these two dongles with these two earphones shows the importance of synergy: the Helm is a much better driver for the UE900S than the UA1 is. The sweeter treble of the Helm helps balance the 900s’ overdone highs, and although the 900s’ dipped upper mids would ostensibly seem a better fit with the UA1’s tendency for shoutiness, they actually seem cleaner and better balanced there with the Bolt. The Bolt’s softer, rounder bass isn’t a problem, as it makes the 900s sound a bit more natural. With the FDX1s, however, the Bolt gives a very soft sub-bass compared to the UA1. Conversely, while the bass of the UA1 matches the FDX1s better, its Harmanish tonality does their upper mids no favours.

It’s tempting to attribute differences in the bass, in particular, to differences in output power.  According to Audio Science Review’s measurements, the Bolt clips at 60 mW into 32 Ohms and about 56 mW into 16 Ohms (HA-FDX1 impedance). Shanling specifies the UA1’s power output as 80 mW into 32 Ohms. The difference between the two dongles isn’t large and I doubt it tells the whole story, because the DragonFly Black is very anemic at 18 mW into 32 Ohms yet the HA-FDX1s don’t lose the definition in the sub-bass when fed from the Black to the extent that they do from the Bolt (warmth of the Black’s signature aside). I conclude that with these dongles, transducer synergy is ‘a thing’.

Other Quick Comparisons

Audioquest Dragonfly Black: pleasant warm emphasis (more than the Bolt), but everything softened and resolution lost (blurred, even a bit scratchy or fuzzy in the highs) compared to the Bolt and UA1. Would view as smooth if not by comparison. Smooth (but not soft) in the bass & lower mids; relaxing with the FDX1s.

Apple dongle: softer than DragonFly Black throughout, not as warm though.

EarMen Sparrow single-ended output: Bolt has better macrodynamics, more and cleaner treble, and is more resolving. UA1 has better note definition (resolution). Sparrow balanced output bests both in dynamics & resolution.

Ifi iDSD Nano BL SE (unfair comparison because: not a dongle, battery powered, 200 mW @ 16 Ohms, significantly more expensive; but included here for completeness because I compared it): darker tonal balance, timbre across the range more integrated, balance between dynamic swings & transient speed more even (maybe a little on the slow side compared to the ESS sound, but to me more natural because of that; organic). S-Balanced is a notable step up over SE in ‘cleanliness’.

Conclusion

It was interesting to hear such different sonic characters from these superficially similar dongles. I hesitate to recommend one over the other as transducer synergy, based on my admittedly limited trials, seems to be important. In general terms, I’d suggest that the Shanling UA1 might be the better match if you have ‘phones that are known to be demanding in the bass; and the Helm Bolt might be the better if you have ‘phones you find at the edge of your tolerance in the upper mids.

Disclaimer

These two dongles were sent to Jürgen for review by Helm Audio and Shanling, who we thank for the opportunity to hear them.

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The post Helm Bolt vs Shanling UA1 USB Dongle DAC/Amps Review – Freedom of Choice appeared first on Music For The Masses.

• Small and light, good build.
• 3 modes for more versatility – music, gaming and movie modes.
• Innovative detachable magnetic cable system.
• Plug and playable, compatible with desktops/laptops, apple and android phones (there is an option to get Lightning versus USB C connectors).
• Very low output impedance, suitable for low impedance IEMs. No hiss.
• Neutralish, with a slight bass boost to add some fun.
• Volume controller.

Cons

• Gets slightly warm.
• Volume may jump when switching between modes – best to mute device/lower volume first.

Executive Summary

The IKKO Zerda ITM01 is a swiss army knife of the budget dongle DAC/AMP arena. It has a music, gaming and movie mode, making it quite versatile. It also has volume controls and boasts a very innovative magnetic cable system. There is good power on tap, yet this set can still drive low impedance type IEMs because of its low output impedance.

Specifications

• DAC uses ESS’s high-performance ESS9298 chip
• PCM supports up to 16Bit/384kHz
• DSD supports up to DoP128
• Adopts ikko’s custom anti-interference magnet thread connection method
• SNR: 118dB@32Ω (A-weight)
• Frequency response range: 20Hz-40kHz (-0.5dB)
• Output impedance: <0.8Ω
• Adaptation impedance: adaptive 16ohm – 600ohm
• Output level: 2V @ 32Ω (125mW @ 32Ω)
• Distortion: < 0.001%
• Decoding ability: Simulation (multiple sound optimizations)
• Size: 58x22x11mm
• Output: 3.5 mm
• Tested at $59 USD

Accessories

• 1x Ikko ITM01 Dongle
• 1x USB A cable
• 1x Type C or lightning cable (you can choose either option at order).

The USB A cable is very long, so no worries of a too short cable limiting your usage. In fact I found it too long and dangly, and had to tie up the cable when using it with my laptop. This cable is cloth braided and there is an included faux leather strap to tie the USB A cable.

A second cable is included, this is either a Lightning or USB Type C connector, depending on which one you choose at ordering. Well that depends if you are of the Apple or Android persuasion, but this cable is very much shorter.

These 2 included cables feature a very nifty and innovative magnetic connector to attach the cable to the DAC/AMP device. The magnetic end of the cable locks on easily and can be used in either direction; this may lessen wear and tear for frequent cable changing.

Contrary to the impressions that a magnetic connector can cause an easy dislodgement of the cable from the DAC/AMP, it is actually not easy to remove this magnetic clamp once the cable is inside, and I had no issues with dislodging the cable on the go.

This cable is unfortunately proprietary. I do appreciate that this DAC/AMP dongle’s cable is detachable, as a non-detachable one may be a point of failure down the line. In this current year of 2021, it is really not excusable to have a non-detachable cable for these dongles (unless we are talking about an ultra-budget set), as a non-detachable cable is one awkward yank away from being a white elephant.

Build

The ITM01 is made of plastic, but is sturdy yet light. As mentioned above, the detachable cable definitely should prolong its lifespan.

Measuring in at 58 x 22 x 11 mm, this set can easily fit into a jeans pocket on the go.

This set has a 3.5 mm output (single ended) and has no balanced option.

Functionality

The IKKO Zerda ITM01 is a plug and play set, and is compatible with desktops/laptops, apple and android phones (depending on the cable type you order), without any need to install drivers.

Disclaimer: I am not an Apple fanboy and do not own any Apple products, so I opted for the USB C version and tested this set on Android phones and a Windows laptop. Please check with others who have bought the Lightning version if they have any issues with Apple products.

The volume buttons work as advertised on the IKKO Zerda ITM01, they can be pressed down with a satisfactory click. I appreciate that the volume steps in the ITM01 are quite fine, unlike the Tempotec Sonata HD Pro, which have huge volume levels in between each volume step.

Pressing the middle button once (short press) pauses or starts the music. This middle button also controls the mode if pressed for 3 seconds: music (yellow LED), movie (blue LED) and game mode (purple LED).

Technical Aspects

The IKKO Zerda ITM01 can support PCM up to 16Bit/384kHz and DSD up to DoP128.

I did not note any RF interference when putting the IKKO Zerda ITM01 through its paces. Neither did I hear any hiss nor clicking with changing tracks midway. There is a bit of a clicking noise however, when changing modes.

On the music mode (yellow LED), the IKKO Zerda ITM01 essentially is neutralish with a slight bass boost. This keeps it from sounding sterile and adds a little bit of fun to the equation. The background is pitch dark with highly sensitive IEMs.

In fact with the advertised <0.8Ω output impedance, this set is perfect for multi driver low impedance IEMs (rule of eights in audiophile teachings). I’ve tried some 9ish ohm low output impedance sets like the Audiosense T800 and TRI Starsea on this DAC/AMP without any issues.

With very high impedance earbuds and cans eg ~ 300 ohms, the IKKO Zerda ITM01 faired well and could drive such gear adequately. When paired with some power hungry IEMs, eg KBEAR BElieve/Final E3000 (low sensitivity) and TRI I3 (planar tribid), these all sounded good, with a lot more headroom to spare.

On the movie mode (blue LED), the soundstage was compressed a tinge, with a boost in the upper mids region, giving more clarity to voices. This gave a spherical blob of soundstage with the head as the reference point, and there was some loss in instrument separation.

I didn’t get a “surround sound” vibe with this mode though. The volume cap is also much higher here than on the music mode, and the volume levels may jump from the music mode when playing an equivalent track (so beware).

On the gaming mode (purple LED), the soundstage became unnaturally wide (it may not be suited for music listening as such), but this might aid in placement of gun shots and footsteps, especially for FPS players. Instrument separation does take a hit compared to the music mode.

Likewise, the volume cap here is also much more than on the music mode, and the volume can also jump suddenly compared to the music mode, while on the same test track.

Hence, when changing modes to the gaming/movie mode, as they have a different volume level/cap, my advise is to mute the volume of your device and put the source (eg phone/laptop) volume to zero, and slowly increase incrementally, in case of any sudden jumps in volume between the modes.

The IKKO Zerda ITM01 does get a bit warm with prolonged usage, but I’ve definitely had other dongle DAC/AMPs that go much hotter.

Comparisons

Compared to the Tempotec Sonata HD Pro, the ITM01 has about comparable sound quality, but the ITM01 is more fun sounding in view of a bass boost, compared to the rather neutral Sonata HD Pro; the Sonata HD Pro can sound a bit more boring as such.

The Sonata HD Pro also has weaker driving power, and can’t drive some more demanding gear, eg 300 ohm cans. Having said that, there are some mods (eg BHD firmware mod, or using a 3.5 mm to 3.5 mm adapter) to get the Sonata HD Pro to output more juice, but the volume steps on the Sonata HD Pro are also bigger, so fine tuning volume levels on the Sonata HD Pro isn’t as reliable.

Compared to the E1DA 9038D, the ITM01 has poorer soundstage and technicalities, but that is not surprising considering the E1DA 9038D is around double the price (the 9038D is not better by twice for sure).

Driving power on both sets are good for a single-ended dongle, but the E1DA 9038D drains more battery and gets noticeably warmer. The E1DA 9038D is also very neutral and may sound more boring and analytical than the ITM01.

Conclusions

The IKKO Zerda ITM01 is a swiss army knife of the budget dongle DAC/AMP arena. It has a music, gaming and movie mode, making it quite versatile. It also has volume controls and boasts a very innovative magnetic cable system. There is good power on tap, yet this set can still drive low impedance type IEMs because of its low output impedance.

This DAC/AMP dongle (on the music mode) features a neutral signature with some slight bass boost to add a bit of fun to the music. Soundwise, the ITM01 definitely holds its own at the budget segment, and at $59 USD, has really quite good price to performance ratio. Recommended!

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Disclaimer

I would like to thank Rebecca from IKKO for providing this review unit. It can be purchased here: https://www.ikkoaudio.com/products/ikko-zerda-itm01-portable-audio-dac-detachable-magnetic-cable-adapter

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Cons — Upper-midrange glare.

Executive Summary

The Shanling UA1 is a well-built and organic sounding budget dongle that could be a bit tamer at the top end.

Introduction

I recently analyzed the Shanling UA2, a rich and warm sounding dongle-shaped DAC/amp that features single-ended and balanced outputs – possibly the best of its kind below $100.

The company had slit the the $45 UA1 as an encore in that package, which was Shanling’s first foray into the world of small DAC/amps. It joins an army of sub-$50 dongles that presently crowd the market – but with a distinct difference: Shanling is a brand name that is also established in the premium segment.

Let’s find out whether “noblesse obliges” also works for the budget domain.

Specifications

Physical Things and Usability

The box’s content is spartan: device, USB-C to USB-A adapter, and a manual. The enclosure is made of anodized aluminum, and the 3.5 mm headphone socket is reinforced with a gold-plated metal rim. There is a tiny LED status light by the socket. The haptic of the enclosure is top notch.

The fixed cable is made of high purity copper with cotton shielding against outside interference. The strain reliefs appear to be sturdy but a detachable cable would have been favourable.

Functionality and Operation

The Shanling UA1 is another entirely source operated/powered DAC/amp. It works plug’n’play with mobile devices and Mac OS, but requires a driver for Windows.

It is powered and operated from the source device and decodes Hi Res up to 32 bit/384 kHz and DSD 256. I have not found MQA decoding capability in the documentation.

Amplification and Power Consumption

I my 3h battery drain test of several dongles, the Dragonfly Black and Red had the lowest consumption on my iPhone 5S, the Shanling UA1 consumed about a third more, which placed it in the midfield. But it could have done far worse than that….see the detailed results. I would call the UA1’s battery consumption ok but not outstanding.

Power Consumption Test: Parameters and Raw Results

I tested the power consumption of several portable headphone amps connected to my iPhone 5S. The conditions were as identical as possible: 3 h test, volume calibrated to 85 dB  ± 0.5 dB white noise with Dayton microphone, no sim card, BT off, no other apps open; network on, 32 ohm Blon BL-03 iem, Genesis’s Supper’s Ready (from the Seconds Out album) played in an endless loop.

The iPhone’s battery was fully charged at the start of the test and the remaining charge was measured thereafter. The result is shown in the table below. Since the tests were performed at different times and considering the ongoing battery deterioration, the results have to be seen with a grain of salt.

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Sound

Equipment used: Macbook Air/iPhone SE first generation; Sennheiser HD 600 & HD 25; Sennheiser IE 400 PRO, JVC HA-FDX1, TRI I3 Pro.

The Shanling UA1 features the ESS ES9218P (dac + amp), a “System-on-Chip” (SoC) that leaves the audio engineer little room for tweaking, it comes down to mainly filtering. This means devices with this SoC will actually sound alike or very close.

The UA1 is close to neutral, but has a faint tone colour with a slightly boosted bass, but also with an elevated upper midrange/lower treble, which adds some grain to the top end top-end that can be fatiguing to some in the long run – and that’s the UA1’s only downside. There is a companion app for Android phones that allows filtering which may mitigate the issue, but it does not work with a computer or iPhone.

Presentation is leaner compared to a $100+ dongle, but not in a bad way. Staging is fine. Midrange is clear and clean, and resolution is pretty good. Nothing sterile or analytical. I also did not record any hiss.

It drives my 300 ohm Sennheiser HD 600 with some pain but any iems, including the power-hungry planar-magnetic TRI I3 Pro earphones with ease.

The $99 Helm Bolt and Shanling UA1have a very similar general sound signature (and even a very similar build; the Bolt decodes MQA, the Shanling does not). The Bolt has less bass, which is a tad tighter and cleaner, it sounds more open and the vocals are more up front because of it, and it is a bit more dynamic. The UA1 has more low-end rumble whereas the Bolt is more composed and “sweeter” at the top end. These differences are not earth shattering but the Bolt appears o be better balanced by more sophisticated filtering.

When going up the ladder, the $85 Shanling UA2 has a richer, bassier sound, better staging, better 3D rendering, more punch, and the corners are smoother.

Concluding Remarks

At $45, the Shanling UA1 is an impressive performer with a warm-bright, organic signature, good staging, dynamics, and resolution that does justice even to $200-300 iems (I have not tested any higher-priced ones as I don’t have any). The only polarizing feature may be its hot upper midrange/lower treble glare, other than that it plays one league higher than its price and comes close to the $99 Helm Bolt that shows a few better rounded corners. However, the Shanling’s lively top end will bring some life to iems with an early treble rolloff.

I am a particular fan of the great haptic and build of Shanling’s UA1 (and also the UA2) that compare even to the most expensive models.

Until next time…keep on listening!

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Disclaimer

The Shanling UA1 was included with the UA2 and ME80 in a review package from the manufacturer. I thank them for that. I sent the UA1 to Biodegraded for a second opinion.

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You find an INDEX of our most relevant technical articles HERE.

The post Shanling UA1 Review – Prefab Sprout appeared first on Music For The Masses.

Cons — Smoothness and richness reduced in revised tuning; still lacks treble extension; still needs strong amplification.

Executive Summary

The TRI I3 Pro remains a unique sounding planar-magnetic earphone that now features more bass and upper midrange which results in improved transparency, clarity, liveliness, and dynamics, at the expense of richness and note weight.

Introduction

KBEAR released their original $169 TRI I3 in late 2019. It was the cheapest planar magnetic earphone on the market and received lots of attention. We analyzed it to death – here the takes by KopiOkaya, Baskingshark, and myself – and also addressed the pros and cons of planar-magnetic drivers.

The original was plagued by channel imbalance, lack of nozzle lips (any eartips were stuck in my ears after each use), the earpieces were “sumo sized” (Baskinghark), the cable did not harmonize sonically, and some say the tips didn’t either. All of these (except the eartips) have been addressed in the Pro model.

Regardless, the original’s sonic offerings were so appealing to the users that the model prevailed until recently – almost unheard of in this genre.

Specifications

Physical Things and Usability

In the box are the earpieces, 2 sets of eartips, cable, pleather pouch (known from Diamond and Believe models), cleaning cloth (!), cleaning brush, and paperwork.

The aluminium alloy earpieces, although shrunk by 26% compared to the original, are still not the smallest lightest but they are (still) very comfortable for me. Build and haptic are premium. The 5N OFC (oxygen-free copper) cable works sonically, has no microphonics, is pliable but a bit on the heavy side. Optically, it is nothing special. in terms of comfort, I had no problems listening through a double CD. Isolation remains average.

The grey stock eartips are fine for me, I cannot not find any better alternatives after some tip rolling. Amplification is required for the I3 Pro to shine, and the more the better. Regular dongles were ok, but the EarMen TR-amp worked best in releasing the sonic details.

Physical Differences between TRI I3 Pro and TRI I3

As you can see from the 2 photos, the shell size has been reduced in volume by 26% (the number is from the product page) without changing shape. You further recognize the nozzle lip added to the Pro.

Tonality and Technicalities

Equipment used: MacBook Air + EarMen TR-amp. Hidizs S9 Pro, Earstudio HUD100, AudioQuest Dragonfly Redw. JitterBug FMJ, AudioQuest DragonFly Cobalt, Astell & Kern PEE51; grey stock eartips. Worked best with the most powerful TR-amp.

KBEAR have addressed a few concerns about their original I3 but kept the principal sonic character. The changes are rather tonal nuances of the original packed into smaller shells.

The I3 Pro is still a warm (but to a lesser extent) iem with that special planar-magnetic timbre that is so different from the rest of the competition – a unique feature of this earphone.

As you can see from a graph comparison, the I3 Pro received boosts at the low end and in the upper midrange, which pronounces the original model’s U-shape. But instead of the vocals being pushed back, they are actually moved forward. This means that the upper midrange wins the balance game over the low end.

In the big picture, the TRI Pro has become brighter, faster (at least perceived so), more dynamic, but also a bit leaner however cleaner in the midrange.

Although the low end has been boosted (and the pinna gain is still at an acceptable 11 dB), it is somewhat compensated for by the elevate upper midrange so that the bass perception is only marginally stronger compared to the original. It is still a bit on the slow side as it is typical for planar-magnetic drivers. It ain’t fuzzy but could be tighter. Because of the changes in the mid frequencies, the bass appears faster than it probably is. Extension into sub-bass is average.

The lower midrange has moved forward and lost a bit of richness and weight. It is leaner, brighter, and more forward. This is probably the biggest sonic difference to the original. And I am not sure it is better for everybody, but it makes for more midrange clarity and dynamics. And it leaves the impression of more sparkle and bite but the Pro is also more prone to be fatiguing to some.

Treble has essentially remained the same. The rolloff is too early at the expense of sparkle and air. That’s probably the reason for raising the upper midrange. 

Soundstage has been deepened because of the increased U-shape which makes for improved spatial cues and transparency. The stage has become more three dimensional. Co-blogger Larry records a loss of width, he claims the more forward presentation (I add: increased depth) gives the impression of a narrower stage. One could say, the original I3’s stage is flatter and wider. I find the increased three-dimensionality an improvement, but such perception may vary individually.

The technicalities also remain mostly the same, that is average. Instrument separation, resolution are all good but not outstanding. Midrange clarity and air as well as dynamics have been improved.

Since the I3 Pro is so unique, it is pointless comparing it to other models in this price segment. Take it or leave it.

Concluding Remarks

The TRI I3 Pro is an upgrade over the 2019 original in many respects and a sidegrade in others. 

Upgraded were the size of shells and therefore comfort, added nozzle lips, included cleaning cloth…and the price, too :). Sound has become brighter, livelier, more transparent, and more dynamic, but the at the cost of richness and note weight, and it digs into that famous ChiFi peak, at least marginally.

Nevertheless, the TRI I3 Pro remains a completely different beast because of its unique sonic appeal, and therefore competitive, even at the upgraded price. Sadly, I observe such raises throughout the ChiFi community, lately.

When starting comparing original and Pro version, I first favoured the former. But with increasing A/B-ing, I find the Pro version better as livelier sounding. The IE3 Pro is still one of the lowest priced planar-magnetic iems on the market and should remain an audio enthusiasts’ favourite.

Until next time…keep on listening!

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All Our 304 Earphone and Earbud Reviews (with Links)

Disclaimer

The TRI I3 Pro were provided from KBEAR for my review and I thank them for that.

Get the TRI I3 Pro from KBEAR Official Store

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Comfortable, light, good build.
Neutralish sound – doesn’t colour frequencies, and potrays the connected IEM as it is.
Excellent sound quality.
Good battery life.
Modular system to allow MMCX and 2 pin options for IEMs.
Strong and easy BT connectivity and range. No dropouts for BT.
Has a mic to take calls.
Volume controller.

Cons:

No LDAC or aptX LL/HD
No charging case.
Hisses with highly sensitive IEMs.
No water proofing.

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The NiceHCK HB2 is a bluetooth wireless adapter that has a modular MMCX/2 pin connector, this increases pairing options for detachable IEMs. It has great sound quality, good battery life and excellent connectivity.

SPECIFICATIONS

• Bluetooth version: Bluetooth 5.2 (Qualcomm QCC3040)
• Bluetooth coding: SBC, AAC, aptX
• Wireless range: 10 meters
• SNR: 59 dB
• Playtime: 13 hours
• Charging time: 1.5 hours
• Tested at $79 USD

ACCESSORIES

In addition to the BT adapter, it comes with:

1) Modular MMCX, 0.78mm 2 Pin and NX7 2 Pin types.

• This is the selling point of the NiceHCK HB2! It comes with a unique 3 types of detachable modules, where one can disconnect the module from the BT adapter, so one can use various IEM connector type housing with it – MMCX, 0.78mm 2 Pin and NX7 2 Pin types.
• The modular design is also good in that usually the connector area is the first point to fail after repeated wear and tear, so no biggie buying the detachable modules, rather than replacing the entire device.

2) USB-C charging cable

BUILD/COMFORT

The NiceHCK HB2 is very comfortable, light and ergonomic. I’ve even used it for 10 hour sessions and forgot it’s in use. The wire guides are flexible and they don’t impinge on the ears, even with a mask and spectacles on. The build quality is rather sturdy too.

The NiceHCK HB2 has no waterproofing mentioned in the specs unfortunately. But FWIW, I’ve used it in some slightly rainy conditions and even with gym and exercise for the past 3 weeks and there are no issues thus far, fingers crossed.

FUNCTION/CONNECTIVITY

Holding a long press on the back of the device turns it on. The left and right sides pair up automatically when turned on, and I had no issues with pairing it with multiple BT devices, all devices recognized the NiceHCK HB2 on the spot. Pressing the power button for 5 seconds conversely turns it off.

The buttons for the NiceHCK HB2 work as advertised:

Interestingly, only one side of the NiceHCK HB2 can be used independently without the need to turn on the other side. This can be an option for some who only want one side in the ear for calls, or say if the other side is being charged. One thing to nitpick is that the buttons are quite sensitive, and are located at the rear of the device, so they can be accidentally touched sometimes.

The NiceHCK HB2 has a mic and can take calls, with good sound quality for calls. I’ve tried it on a few online meetings with no complaints from the others in the conferences with regards to voice quality.

I also liked the volume controller on the NiceHCK HB2. In contrast, some BT adapters like the iBasso CF01 have no volume control on it, so if say one is far away from the BT device used to pair with it, one has to physically go over to the device to change the volume, unlike the NiceHCK HB2, which just requires a tap on the housing.

Connectivity is excellent on the NiceHCK HB2, I have not a single drop out whatsoever in the past 3 weeks that I’ve been using them. The BT range is about 10 meters or so, assuming no walls/obstructions are in the path.

The NiceHCK HB2 doesn’t come with a charging case unfortunately, but it takes around 1.5 hours to reach a full charge. Battery life is advertised at 13 hours, I think it is thereabouts ballpark from my testing, but as per most BT/wireless devices, that is expected to go down with repeated charging cycles, and it also depends on the volume one listens at and perhaps the file type (lossless versus lossy).

TECHNICAL ASPECTS

The NiceHCK HB2 uses the Qualcomm QCC3040 TWS chipset. It has BT 5.2 with support for aptX, SBC and AAC, but unfortunately doesn’t support LDAC or aptX LL/HD.

For the purposes of this review, I paired the NiceHCK HB2 with a range of 15 IEMs. From more power hungry sets like the TRI I3 (contains planars) and the KBEAR BElieve (low sensitivity beryllium driver), to some fussier low impedance/high sensitivity multi driver sets like the Audiosense T800 and TRI Starsea.

Pairings:

• Audiosense T800
• BLON BL-03
• BLON Cardinal
• iBasso CF01
• KBEAR BElieve
• Kinera BD005 Pro
• LZ A7
• Oriveti New Primacy
• Tanchjim Oxygen
• TFZ Tequila
• TRI I3
• TRI Starsea
• Westone 3 (MMCX modded)
• Westone W30
• Whizzer HE01

This device packs quite a lot of juice, and it could power the KBEAR BElieve and TRI I3 with headroom to spare. One thing I would have to nitpick, is that there is some hiss noted with high sensitivity type multi BA IEMs like those mentioned above.

One can mitigate the hiss to some extent by lowering the volume on the NiceHCK HB2, and just jacking up the volume from the BT device you are connected to. Generally the hiss also is not perceived when one is outdoors or when music starts playing anyway.

Dynamics are good on the NiceHCK HB2, there isn’t much loss of the subbass, which is a common occurance in TWS/BT sets. There is some loss of the higher treble, but when one uses BT and wireless stuff on the go and outside,

I think it is quite hard to really notice this. I really liked that the NiceHCK HB2 doesn’t colour the sound much, it just faithfully transmits the sound signature of the attached IEM. So far of the IEMs I’ve paired with it, they all sound the same in terms of general FR as the wired version of these IEMs, though of course wired gear in general tends to have better dynamics, microdetails and technical performance.

COMPARISONS

Even among wireless gear, I generally prefer BT adapters (like the TRN BT20S and TRN BT20), rather than TWS stuff, as I’d like to use my favourite detachable IEMs (with famililar sound signatures) on the go, and hence these BT adapters allow me to reuse the IEM. Plus I think that TWS buds are limited sooner or later by the BT tech or battery life (with repeat charges), so at least the IEM can be kept even if the TWS bud dies/gets outdated.

I’ve the TRN BT20 and TRN BT20S and the iBasso CF01 for these BT adapters. The NiceHCK HB2 sound better than these 3 in terms of sound quality/dynamics and also in terms of connectivity. The iBasso CF01 is more expensive, but comes with a charging case.

I’ve had a few drop outs with the iBasso CF01s and there is a shorter connection distance than the NiceHCK HB2. The iBasso CF01 also only features a MMCX non detachable connector, so that limits the IEM types that can be used with it. The iBasso CF01 has no volume controller as mentioned prior.

CONCLUSIONS

The NiceHCK HB2 is a bluetooth wireless adapter that has a modular MMCX/2 pin connector, this increases pairing options for detachable IEMs. It has great sound quality, good battery life and excellent connectivity.

If a charging case was added, this BT adapter would have been perfect, but as it is, I would recommend this set for those that want the convenience of a wireless connection on the go!

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DISCLAIMER

I bought the NiceHCK HB2 with a discount from the NiceHCK Aliexpress shop: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002848089532.html.

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Cons — Recessed mmcx port on Sony IER-Z1R housing can be an issue for 3rd party cables
– Bulky housing gets uncomfortable and might not even fit
– Can deliver over-bearing bass at times
– Mids are lacklustre, average in terms of resolution and engagement factor
– Center-imaging isn’t class-leading
– Somewhat source-picky

INTRODUCTION

Sony needs no introduction.

I mean, you have used at least one of their products in your lifetime. Thus, let’s cut to the chase. The Sony IER-Z1R is their flagship (universal) in-ear monitor. Priced at $1700 retail, these are true top-of-the-line contenders in the IEM space and is looking for a place among the best of the best earphones around. 

Does the Sony IER-Z1R justify the hefty price-tag, or is it another underachiever? Let’s find out.

Note: the ratings given will be subjective to the price tier. My dear friend Syed lent me his personal unit.

Sources used:  Cowon Plenue R2, Sony NW-A55, Sony WM1A, A&K Kann Alpha
Price, while reviewed: $1700. Can be bought from Sony’s Official Website

PHYSICAL THINGS AND USABILITY

PACKAGING AND ACCESSORIES

An accessory set fit for a king, preceded by a regal unboxing experience. The IER-Z1R puts most flagship packaging to royal shame *cough* 64Audio *cough*. It’s a TOTL product through and through and Sony spent considerable time into the packaging and accessories. The jewelry box like assembly with sliding trays keep the various items into their own compartment. The stock cables are built well and is very ergonomic with no touch noise, but they are a tad too long for my liking. Does help when you connect the IEMs to desktop amps though. There are too many tips to count and you get an oversized box to store the IEMs with felt-lining inside. Overkill, impractical, but very cool.
5/5

BUILD QUALITY

The Sony IER-Z1R is built and sized like a tank. The zirconium alloy shells are absurdly large. Everything but the nozzle is super-sized, including the recess into which the mmcx port sits. As a result one must choose after-market cables carefully. Most third-party cables have a thinner mmcx stem that will be literally eaten up by the Z1R (thus I’d recommend the Sony stock cable or the kimber cable).

Back to the housing, the backplate has a perlage pattern often seen on luxury watches (a metal tip rotates on top of the metal plate to form such a pattern). The shape of the housing mirrors the shape of the inner acoustic cavity (more on this later) and thus have a unique design rarely seen elsewhere. The top of the IEM houses the color-coded channel markings, where I can see something that resembles a vent. Other than that, no other vents or asymmetries in the housing.

The design stands out and draws attention, as is customary for Sony’s signature line of gear.
5/5

COMFORT, ISOLATION, AND FIT

Comfort = horrible. Fit = atrocious. Isolation = above average (when pushed deep into the canals, basically how these IEMs are supposed to be worn). Wearing the Sony IER-Z1R for any length of time is a challenge and will definitely be the deal-breaker for most people. Auditioning the IEM before purchasing is strongly advised. 
1/5

SOURCE AND EARTIPS

The best source for the Sony IER-Z1R is Sony’s own WM1A Walkman DAP. People often talk about “synergy” between source and IEM, and very few pairings showcase such synergy. I myself tried the Z1R mostly with the Cowon Plenue R2 during review, however, and used the stock Sony Hybrid tips. Later on I tried it with the WM1A and that did improve upon my issues with the mids. If you are planning to get an IER-Z1R, the WM1A/WM1Z DAPs are recommended.

DRIVER SETUP

The Sony IER-Z1R has a triple-driver hybrid setup, with two dynamic drivers in charge of bass/mids and upper-treble, and one BA driver in charge of the treble. 

The largest driver in this array is the 12mm bass/midrange driver that has a Magnesium dome with Aluminium-coated LCP surround. This ensures better pistonic motion and a very high excursion. The excursion is further aided by a resonance chamber and tube structure in the back of the driver. All of these results in the signature hard-hitting, dense bass of the Sony IER-Z1R.

The upper-treble tweeter also has a very interesting design. It’s a 5mm micro-dynamic driver with Al-coated LCP diaphragm and offers up to 100KHz response — a figure that’s inaudible by all humans but aces the numbers game. In practical use, the 5mm driver has very fast transients and offers the timbral accuracy of a dynamic driver instead of the artificial BA timbre or the fleeting, lightweight nature of EST tweeters.

Lost in all these is the miniscule side-firing BA treble driver that mostly handles lower and mid-treble. It’s a Sony proprietary T-shaped armature pin and has better timbre and slightly slower decay than typical Knowles BA drivers.

Sony doesn’t just stop here, rather they place these drivers in a coaxial orientation in a 3D-printed magnesium alloy chamber. The material choice is to reduce resonant frequencies and also the unique design results in a straight sound path for each driver, thus avoiding the usual cross-over tubes. Very fascinating driver setup all in all, but it’d all be for naught if the sound quality isn’t up to the mark. Fortunately, that’s not the case at all.

TONALITY AND TECHNICALITIES

The Sony IER-Z1R has a V-shaped sound signature, but that’s a reductionist statement to say the least. The IER-Z1R lives and breathes bass. The sub-bass sets the foundation of the entire sonic delivery and boy oh boy if this ain’t the best bass response in an earphone on this forsaken planet. I’ve heard IEMs with even more emphasized bass or faster bass, but the delightfully textured bass on the Z1R is second to none when it comes to providing the sense of rhythm. The slam, the slightly extended decay (unlike the super-fast BA bass), the subterranean reach of the sub-bass — it’s the whole package. The mid-bass is no slouch either (unlike the DF-tuned IEMs around) and snare hits/pedals have superb definition/body. Macrodynamics are some of the best I’ve ever heard. If you’re a bass-head, this is your endgame (as long as your ears are large enough).

The other aspect of the IER-Z1R that is apparent right away is the sense of space it portrays. The stage width is as good as many full-size open-backs. The stage depth is remarkable, and coupled with precise imaging you truly get that out-of-the-head experience. The one aspect where it falls short of the likes of, say, Hifiman Ananda in terms of staging is the stage height. This is where the large drivers on full-size headphones flex their muscles. 

Despite the bass focus the treble on the IER-Z1R is… perfect. It has adequate sparkle and air without veering into the “bright” zone. Cymbal decays are well-extended and even in sections with super-fast cymbal hits the notes don’t smear into each other. Transient response overall is excellent. There is a slight peak around 5.5KHz but that never became a bother for me personally. This is where insertion depth comes into play because with a less-than-adequate insertion the treble becomes splashy. If I had to nitpick about the treble response it would be the slightly soft leading edge of notes. This rounded nature of upper-frequency notes help in avoiding listening fatigue but can take away the rawness of crash cymbals. Nonetheless, Sony has made a good trade-off IMO and the treble is nearly as good as it gets in the TOTL range.

Unfortunately, Sony focused a bit too much on the bass and treble and the midrange played second-fiddle to both. The mids here are just about okay I’d say. Male vocals sound somewhat muffled and female vocals, despite having more focus than male vocals, are robbed off of the emotion that certain IEMs in this price are capable of displaying. Also instrument separation and microdynamics weren’t as great as I hoped it would be, partly due to the recessed lower midrange. String instruments lacked the bite and their undertones were often muddied by the bass. Mid-range performance is definitely the weakest link in the IER-Z1R signature and that’s disappointing given the stellar bass and treble.

To summarize: if you like V-shaped sound signature and aren’t too bothered about the subtleties of vocals — this is it, this is the IEM to end all V-shaped IEMs. 

Bass: 5/5
Midrange: 3.5/5
Treble: 5/5
Staging: 5/5
Imaging/Separation: 4.5/5
Dynamics/Speed: 4/5

SELECT COMPARISONS

vs Campfire Andromeda ($1000): The tuning of the Andromeda and the Z1R couldn’t be more different. Whereas Campfire Audio went for a relatively balanced tuning for the Andromeda 2020, Sony is proud of their bass driver and tuned the Z1R with sub-bass focus in mind. Bass is where these two IEMs differ the most. Andromeda 2020 has typical fast BA bass that’s nimble without being punchy. The Sony IER-Z1R’s bass is slower but makes up for that with slam and punch and sub-bass that rattles inside your eardrums.

Midrange is where the Sony pulls back a bit whereas the Andro 2020 (in contrast to the Andro 2019) gains some presence. Vocals are more prominent on the Andro 2020 and midrange in general is better executed, I’d say. String instruments esp shine on the Andromeda. 

As for the treble, the Campfire Andromeda 2020 has really well-executed treble that’s smooth, non-fatiguing, and well-extended but pales in comparison to the treble on the IER-Z1R. Cymbal hits have a presence and crunch that’s just missing on the Andromeda 2020. 

In terms of soundstage/imaging, the former goes to the IER-Z1R whereas the Andro 2020 has slightly better center-imaging than the IER-Z1R but similar cardinal/ordinal imaging otherwise. 

If you want visceral bass punch and some of the best treble under $2000, the Sony IER-Z1R shall be your pick. However, the Andro 2020 has a more balanced tuning and acts as a complimentary tuning to the IER-Z1R’s exciting delivery. Comfort is also much better on the Campfire Andromeda, so there’s that.

vs Final A8000 ($2000): The Final A8000 is their current single-DD flagship and sports a pure Be diaphragm driver. While the A8000 has north-of-neutral sub-bass rise, it pales in comparison to the level of mid-bass thump that the Sony IER-Z1R provides. However, the A8000 bass is faster and will cater well to those who prefer a nimble bass presentation. 

In terms of midrange, I prefer the A8000’s vocals by a margin over the IER-Z1R. Final knows how to tune the midrange and the vocals/string instruments are as articulate as they can be on the A8000. Every subtle nuance is highlighted including vocalists breathing in/out. Timbre is another strong point here with the metallic tinge of steel strings being evident against the more natural, softer tone of nylon strings. 

The treble region is where the Sony IER-Z1R pulls ahead with no sharp 6KHz peak (A8000’s biggest downside) and more extended upper-treble. This leads to an even wider soundstage (though A8000 has very good stage width). Imaging is about even on both with center-imaging being slightly less accurate on both IEMs. Overall resolution is about similar on both, with the more resolving A8000 midrange being counter-balanced by the smoother yet better extended treble on the IER-Z1R.

Between these two, I’d pick the IER-Z1R if you can get a fit and don’t bother too much about midrange. However, the A8000 is a great choice if you prefer well-realized vocals/string instruments, a faster bass response, and don’t mind the 6KHz peak/willing to tune it via PEQ.

vs 64Audio U12t ($2000): Finally, Goliath vs Goliath. The 64Audio U12t is one of the best IEMs available around the $2000 mark and is one of the best all-BA IEMs out there. By swapping the APEX modules you can also increase the bass response in them (M20 offers a bit more bass). This comparison is made with the M20 module. 

The U12t has perhaps the best BA bass out there, and it’s quite a feat indeed. However, it can’t out-muscle the physical grunt of the Sony IER-Z1R’s bass response. The mids are better tuned on the U12t, as is a theme in this comparison. The treble is where we find interesting differences. The U12t goes for a smoother treble presentation with rounded notes, whereas the IER-Z1R has a more immediate sense of attack that gives cymbal hits/hi-hats a really nice bite. I think depending on taste you might prefer one over the other, I myself find the Z1R’s treble response more appealing.

Soundstage is wider and taller on the IER-Z1R but stage depth is about par on the U12t. Imaging is tad more precise on the U12t, though these are marginal differences. Where I found more palpable was the difference in coherence. U12t, despite the 12 drivers, sounded more coherent than the IER-Z1R. Also a slight note about build/accessories: Sony IER-Z1R is quite a bit ahead on those aspects.

In conclusion, if you want a smoother, laid-back listen with great all-round performance, the 64Audio U12t will serve you really well. For those who need more excitement and fun-factor, the Sony IER-Z1R shall be on the top of your list.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

In hindsight, it’s quite easy to review and recommend the Sony IER-Z1R. If someone wants the best bass available in an IEM, they should definitely try the IER-Z1R. It’s an unabashedly fun, colored tuning that works well across various genres. 

The big elephant in the room: the fit. Without a deep, snug fit you’d have a hard time finding what makes the IER-Z1R so special, making it rather necessary to trial these beforehand. 

If you can get a fit, and if you love bass — the Sony IER-Z1R is a no-brainer really. I am yet to find something that tops it as the bass-head endgame, and if you know that’s what you want and got the right-sized ears — get ready for some brain-rattling.

Test tracks:

https://tidal.com/browse/playlist/04350ebe-1582-4785-9984-ff050d80d2b7

MY VERDICT

4.5/5

Highly Recommended if you want the ultimate bass-head IEM.

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DISCLAIMER

The unit was on loan from a friend.

Our generic standard disclaimer.

SONY IER-Z1R PHOTOGRAPHY

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